Rest Day. 3/11. Ullanbaatar ( Mongolia)

      Ullanbaatar (Mongolia)

A most welcome Rest Day after crossing the Gobi. We have come to the end of Stage 1 of the expedition ’The Great Wall’. Some riders finished here and some 4 new cyclists join the caravan.

The chance to sleep in a bed last night was reviving although was down for a lovely pretty traditional breakfast before 8 am.

I think I'm getting soft as I entrusted all my washing to the hotel service. Handed it in at 10 o’clock and delivered back to the room at 5.

Had a bit of shopping to do, not only for the next 6 days (with 5 nights bush camping) but also for some gear.

My old bag was beginning to disintegrate so now I have a brilliant green one with my favourite identifying woollen headband.

Also I have escaped being soaked by rain without a good waterproof jacket so now I’ll be dry and definitely be visible to all. Mind you, it cost almost half a million.

Today was principally one of rest and preparation so I didn't do much of the tourist things.

On my way back from my purchases I noticed crowds and music in Ghinngis Khan Square (the centre of the city). I made my way to the top where all the action was. Apparently today is the Festival of the Glorious Mongolian Soldier. It was a stationary military parade with various companies demonstrating their drills and marching. All was being televised and shown on a big screen.

Crowds consisting of veterans and town groups viewed the proceedings with pride. At the other end of the square the public and especially kids handled army guns and equipment.

The mighty statue of Ghinngis Khan himself presided over all.

Ghinngis Khan (considered the Father of Mongolia and almost a deity)established the Mongol empire around 1200 by conquest, intimidation and alliances.at its height it stretched from the Pacific to Eastern Europe, the largest contiguous empire in history. Their mastery of horse craft contributed in no small way to building such an empire. By all accounts Ghinngis had red hair, green eyes and was afraid of dogs. Before capturing a city he gave then one chance to concede, if not he conquered it and killed the richest inhabitants as being the most worthless and dangerous. Strangely, he established. The concept of diplomatic immunity and arranged his troops on the basis of 10 - a squad of 10, 10 squads to form a company, 10 companies to form a battalion and 10 battalions to form an army of 10,000 troops.

Ulaanbaatar has a population of 1.2 million, almost half of the country. It was developed by the Soviets from the 1940’s, but now there is a great building program fuelled by the mining boom. Many people around the edge of the city still live in ger parks and the only form of heating is coal fires. Hence, the city has the most polluted atmosphere in winter; the air thick with smog. No fear of that these days with those winds.

From now on (apart from the 40 km out of the city) we will spend long stretches off-road and so everyone changed to wider tyres. I removed the 28’s and put on the 35’s. Also on the tracks I’ll reduce the pressure to assist traction. And the bike needed a good clean-up and oiling after the Gobi. Lots of red dust in the strangest of places.

And for dinner this evening, a group of us went to the local Grand Khan Irish Pub. I checked and no Irish staff member, not an Irish manager, no fraught Guinness, no Irish connection at all, not even an Irish flag. There was an Irish lamb stew on the menu but I went for the steak.....and it was nice and tender.

So all is packed now and ready for the next stage, The Mongol Empire, till June 18 when we arrive in Gorno Altysk in Russia. Looking to the adventure, although I know it’ll be tough and demanding.

Keep the comments coming. They help.

Thank God for a lovely day.

Day 11 of 54. May 27

Bush Camp 3 to Ulaanbaatar.

Distance:  132 km

Cumulative Distance: 1241 km

Time: 6 hrs 46 min

Speed:  19.3 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  2861

Cumulative Climb: 26,346 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 101 bpm

Punctures: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4030 ft

Another tough day, but not in the same league as yesterday. When I arrived in camp yesterday evening (in a walled compound behind a country restaurant) I was exhausted and I just refused to think about today's route or make a decision. It's amazing what a night’s sleep and relaxation does. Sleep......I didn't get a lot thanks to the dog tethered just nearby. When I set up the tent in that spot at 5.30 pm he looked very calm and quiet. Later, after I went to bed (9pm), I realised that he relaxes during the day and only comes to life after nightfall. Two other dogs in the compound didn't help. They continued well after midnight, and had another barking conversation around 2.30. I kept my patience and still felt relaxed when the alarm sounded at 4.45.

All was calm outside and not as cold as the previous morning. The usual group of us set out on the long road for Ulaanbaatar. We had extra layers on but we shed those as the day wore on.

Today we started to emerge from the Gobi Desert. Patches of green appeared on both sides  and ore livestock evident.

It was such a pleasure to ride in calm conditions especially after the last few days. We moved along, utilising the same rotation at 27 km/hrs on level ground. All the while we hoped the winds wouldn't pick up till we had a good distance covered. The first inkling of a sidewind struck us exactly 1 km before lunch stop (at 83 km). We were just over halfway. 

Mongolians are fond of horses and proud of their horse skills. Repeatedly we observed horses being rounded up and driven across the ever increasing green steppe. Fond they are, but we came on an unpleasant sight in a hollow right by the side of the road.

Got a great wave from two intrepid cycle tourists travelling in the opposite direction. Haven't seen too many of them. Locals don't see to many of them either. In one petrol station the attendants were intrigued by the bikes and the bike computers on them.

At lunch we just had to have a shot of our international group.. (left to right) Mike Archer (NZ), Mike Hennessy (Canada), Joan O Donohue (S Carolina), Frieder Wolfart (Switzerland) and self. We worked well through all that the elements and the landscape threw at us.

Just after lunch (at 87 km) we faced into the major climb of the dayq, 6 km of gradient 3% with a sidewind or headwind. After the first crest there were more ups and downs right to the outskirts of Ullanbaatar. We regrouped on the tops of the group had been disconnected. 

On the tops of these passes were ovoos and as tradition demands I circled it three times, threw a stone onto the pile and made a wish “Please make this wind stop”. There were crutches and discarded walking sticks about so the belief is strong.

Near one of these ovoos was a large cemetery on a hillside. Till the early 20th century Mongolians practiced sky-burial, leaving the corpse out to the elements at sacred high spots and letting nature take its way and ensuring reincarnation of the spirit. When the Russians came they forbad this practice and insisted on burial although now cremation is becoming more popular.

As we move onto steppe landscape herding is becoming more noticeable. At one stage a horseman drove a large herd of sheep and goats down a hill and across the road just in front of Mike. To see a Mongolian in full flight on a horse is really to see poetry in motion.

Another herder passed near us with a well qualified King Puck in his care.

Looking out over this new slightly greener landscape is refreshing and a change from the Gobi. We spotted water for the first time in days.

Coming within 25 km of Ulaanbaatar the roads got very busy both ways. Heavy traffic, no hard shoulder, broken surface between the concrete slabs and a strong sidewind made progress dangerous. Trucks, cars and buses just couldn't pull out. At times we were forced off the road over the sharp drop onto the gravel verge. At this stage Jordan, of the tour staff who cycled with us called a halt and declared the situation too perilous to proceed. He called the truck to ferry us the remaining kilometres to the hotel.

Traffic in Ulaanbaatar was hectic barely moving but eventually we reached base and after two nights camping wild, the shower was the greatest luxury.

And at dinner we did relax with a good bottle of Mongolian beer. We reckon we deserved it after conquering the Gobi.

Now for a Rest Day to reorganise and recover before hitting the trail again on Sunday morning for more adventure.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Day 10. May 26.

Bush Camp 2 (Dalanjargalan) to Bush Camp 3.

Distance:  145 km

Cumulative Distance: 1109 km

Time: 8 hrs 54 min

Speed:  16.1 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  4434

Cumulative Climb: 23,485 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 108bpm

Punctures: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4296 ft.

Another pulverising day. Yesterday it was the last 3 km that was the worst part. Today it was the last 103 km that. Was extremely difficult. Q

When rising at 5 am all was dry and a light headwind blowing. Nothing much to worry about. Wind wouldn't probably get stronger till late in the afternoon like yesterday.

When setting out it was cold. Some reported temperatures of zero while coming to breakfast. Extra layers were on for the early kilometres.

Everything (wind wise) was as expected till about 40 km. Then it picked up coming in from the left. The three of us (Mike, Frieder and I) rotated efficiently as the road rose and fell for the next 60 km. More long climbs today (3km at 4% into a headwind) than yesterday.

At the 100 km the wind came straight at us with a vengeance. At home I wouldn't dream of going out for a cycle in that wind; in fact I wouldn't even go out for a walk. It persisted till we pulled into Bush Camp 3 after 145 km at 5pm after leaving at 6.30, a long day in the saddle.

With conditions like that, little time or interest in surroundings. But, as the day progressed, some rough vegetation appeared and groupings of cattle were a little larger.

We stopped in the town of Choir for a break shortly before lunch. The only town we passed through. Spent a while outside a well-stocked shop and rested in the sheltered sunshine as the staff brought in mutton for the week.

A young dad with his kid on the passenger seat (probably going to school) pulled on by us and we shared chocolate with them.

Today saw the first passenger Mongolian Express on the rails. Those passengers weren't worried about the wind.

Road conditions detiorated after 60 km. it is an older road and in need of repair in spots. Needed to navigate around them.

Tomorrow will be another long day into Ulaanbaatar and a Rest Day. Looking forward to that. Hope winds are a little kinder to us in the morning. Still glad to have finished the day. Quite a few availed of the wagon and gave up while still out on the road.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Day 9. Wednesday. May 25.

  Sajnsand to Bush Camp (Dalanjargalan)

Distance:  156 km

Cumulative Distance: 964 km

Time: 7 hrs 45 min

Speed:  20.1 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  2151

Cumulative Climb: 19051 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 115 bpm

Punctures: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 3730 ft.

Off on the bike again after a Rest Day. The dawn broke clear with negligible wind but forecast of strong headwinds in the afternoon. Had a good look at the rising sun before hitting off on this 3 day stint to Ulaanbaatar.

Just out of Sajnsand we crossed the rail tracks in time and had a close up of this monster , the Trans Mongolian, as she passed by. Rob didn't make it and had to wait behind a 700 m train till it trundled past. Once it passed we could see it disappearing into the distance ahead.

Off we head into the Gobi again and a similar scene awaits at the top of every rise. The early morning sun threw shadows across the road in these pleasant conditions.

Another mighty gate ahead. The Mongolians are great for an imposing gate on the highway. We had to stop for another photo. And just beyond the police were keeping a close eye on the behaviour of all cyclists.

The condition of the roadways excellent and traffic was minimal. Very little in the way of plant growth and only a very odd animal. Also only a sign of habitation at very rare spots. Definitely wouldn't be troubled by neighbours.

The first 44 km was pleasant in wind terms and blue skies were up ahead. Haven't seen them for a while. For this stretch I cycled mostly alone and enjoyed the solitude. At 44 km a sidewind blew up coming in from the right. I spotted a group in the distance ahead, a group of 5. I caught up to avail and contribute to the rotation. We split into two groups of 3 and continued on till the wind direction changed around Lunch Stop at 84. We rode in echelon rotating every Km always seeking out that optimal shelter spot behind the leader. So 1 km of taking the wind and 2 km of a break.

Animal life today consisted of camels and goats. The camels crossed the road just ahead (about 30 of them). Not cosmetically endowed and you could smell them from a distance. These seemed to be wild, no sign of any herder or enclosure nearby. One in particular, the big brown one seemed to be the boss and decided when the group should move on.

From 84 to 150 km we cycled on into a slight headwind. The trains passed by on the left (the line was within sight all day) and we kept heading for those nice clouds ahead.

At 150 km (of the 157 scheduled) all changed, changed utterly. That headwind that we had been coping comfortably with turned angry. We could see it causing a local sand storm ahead. At this stage I was in lead position and the sudden blast stopped all in our tracks; the bike wouldn't move forward and all had to dismount for a short while till the wind eased a bit. For those last 5 km it put us to the pin of our collar to reach 8 km/hr and sometimes even less.

The final 3 km must have taken us half an hour. We could see the camp on the slope ahead but it was very slow in getting any closer.

Mike Hennessy, Frieder and I pulled into camp together at 3 pm and celebrated accordingly. Hot soup awaited us in the kitchen tent and was relished.

Next was to get the tent erected in this wind. It wasn't easy but people clubbed together for the task. At least it wasn't raining. Sinea, the leader of our Mongolian transport crew helped me and I used my Mongolian, ’boya-la’ to thank him. He appreciated it.

So my tent here looks out on just part of the Gobi, with all tents with their backs to the wind.

Had a double helping of a great meal, Mark our chef has arrived, and just a few minutes ago, the last rider, Ruth, arrived on 5 hours after us. She got the reception of a celebrity for completing the day. Some other riders took the truck from various places along the road.

The wind is still blasting away and blowing a little light fine sand right through the tent. Out here on this bleak hillside in the Gobi, I can still get reception and the blog goes up.

The same, 150 km,  again tomorrow to shorten the road to Ulaanbaatar.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.