Day 41. Saturday. July 2.

   Sarkand  to Taldykorgan Bush Camp 25.

Distance:  150 km

Cumulative Distance: 4525 km

Time: 6 hrs 50 min

Speed:  21.9 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 2277

Cumulative Climb: 88,899 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 1947 ft.

Definitely a day of two halves. Till 110 km all was rosy, a bit of wind that wasn't a hindrance, rain that passed us by and generally downhill. After 110, it was a stiff climb into a headwind and rain till the end. That's life!

If I wasn't here today, I might well be doing the Ring of Kerry. Hope all enjoy it and have favourable weather.

Just before retiring last evening, looking out my front door was a beautiful view of the Tien Shan peaks. A bit of rain during the night but tent was dry at packing time. I haven't slept much the last two nights but have rested and relaxed and felt well up for the distances ahead. Might get some shuteye tonight.

Pulling out of camp just after 5 we had a slight tailwind as we passed through Sarkand heading due west and a beautiful cloudscape before us. As yesterday, it was hills on the left and some almost ready grain and flat endless cultivation on the right. Those hills are but the foothills of much higher country behind and China beyond that. Both countries share a 1782 km long border and no border incidents have occurred since Soviet times. That was located about 200 km east of where we were last night, Sarkand. That disputed territory, east of Zhalanashkol Lake is now part of China by agreement in 1995 between China and the new independent Kazakhstan. So relations are friendly. 

The kilometres clicked up rapidly on my Garmin but also dark rain clouds appeared first on the left (that came to nothing) and a big storm (thunder and lightning) ahead of us but to the right. Luckily it was moving away and we only got the tail-end of the rain that lasted just a few minutes. I put on the rain gear 3 times today and took it off twice - better than putting it on once and not taking it off. Tried to capture a lightning flash but not as fast with the finger as I used to be! Thunder storms had been mentioned on the forecast for today.

I was at lunch (75 km) before 8.30 and all was looking promising for an early finish. A Kazakh policeman dropped in at lunchtime just for the chat. Had enough English to hold a bit of conversation. After name, they always enquire age and hearing mine, he said I could be his father. (He was just 25.) Strangely enough for a policeman, he had no problem standing for a photo.

Road surface was better today but also busier. At one stage it developed into a four-lane highway. Cars had more room to pass without honking and suggesting you jump onto the gravel shoulder.

We knew that today's major climb would come after 110 km and last for 18 km. It had three sharp 2 km lifts at 9% and in between a general gradient of 5%. That in itself was going to be tough; but then throw in a headwind as we had switched direction to south-west and the rain that started was made piercing with that wind. I was on my own for this climb but powered on and passed a few on the way up.

There was a corresponding descent to final destination but progress was curtailed by the elements - had to pedal hard to move at 22 km/hr.

Near to Taldykorgan a large number of bunkers (with fighters inside) appeared just before the Air Force base - buildings on both sides of the road. Kazakhstan has an Air Force of 12,000 and Taldykorgan is one of the four principal bases. Most of its aircraft are Russian Migs and the new Su-30SM.

Along here the road had an immaculate smooth tar-mac surface with a decorative wrought iron balustrade on the median. I’m sure visiting foreign dignitaries were suitably impressed with it.

Finding the campsite proved a it difficult and all the more annoying being wet. Flagging wasn't according to route directions (on the right) but on the far left of this lovely divided four-lane highway. Arrived at 1.45, although being dull and overcast with just light rain at this stage, it seemed much later.

These small difficulties were forgotten about after a dinner of lovely fried turkey breasts....I had 3 and loved every bite.

A mixed day but another climbing day tomorrow, but shorter.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Day 40 / 54. Friday. July 1.

 Ushural to Sarkand Bush Camp 24.

Distance:  142 km

Cumulative Distance: 4375 km

Time: 6 hrs 53 min

Speed:  20.6 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 3750

Cumulative Climb: 86,622  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 110 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight:  2516 ft.

Back in the saddle for a 5 day stretch that will bring us into Almaty. Today was a change for the better with a variety of scenery and road shape. We had mountains to our left hand side all day and high snow-capped ones (Central Tian Shan) far off in the distance ahead. Will become acquainted with them in Kyrgyzstan. Across those to our left is China; tonight we are just 40 km from the Chinese border, a sensitive area that needs a special permit to enter.

We had no long stretches into the far distance except for a few long ones over the last 30 km, just at the point when fatigue begins to rear its ugly head and temperatures tend to rise towards 30C.

We left Usharal later than usual at 6am and retraced 8 km of last Wednesday’s route in an anti-clockwise semi-circle to join up with the road to Almaty at a major roundabout. For this first 8 km the little wind that was there was directly behind us. Situation changed at that roundabout but wind was not an issue all day. We were heading southwest and a light airflow was coming in from the south. 

Quite a sizeable ascent over the day with the only long climb coming after 16 km lasting for 3 km over three lifts, the first and last kilometres at 9% gradient. Good to get that out of the way early in the day before it got too warm. As the crest came one wondered what was in store ahead. Mike passed me at this point (he’s strong on the hills) and led me down a nice easy in line with no other major ahead.

For the rest of the day it was a rolling route with sharp lifts like the hill of Kilfeacle (9% over about 600 metres). Some rose at 12% over shorter distances. 

More cultivation visible today of a colourful nature. Off to the left, Frieder points out the ’red’ crop surrounded by the green fields beneath the blue sky. I'm sure Helen will correct him as regards that ’red’! When we got closer (it was well off the road) it appeared to be some type of meadow and looked very like what was growing all along the roadside only in that section.

Out to our right dark threatening clouds hung about and a few drops fell after 50 km but not sufficient to call for the rain gear. I carry the full set every day.....best way to keep rain away! This evening in camp, a thunderstorm is in place over the mountains east of us but we don't seem to be in its path. Fingers crossed! (As I publish, that storm has passed and those mountains are crystal clear again.)

Road surface today for the first 80 km was much improved and I was happy to tell myself that all the potholes were behind us. How wrong I was. First, a construction crew was out with just a grader scraping the tops off the ridges and depositing the result as loose ’gravel’ in the troughs. Hardly an improvement.

Then after swinging left at 86 km I was on what seemed like a road laid down on a bog with no substructure. It was bumpy and wavy and not the thing to be on after a big meal. For long stretches of it I cycled along the gravel edge, much smoother. Cars and trucks were doing the same thing and raising a right cloud of dust. I couldn't but wonder how Kazakhstan with its many oilfields (their off-shore oilfield in the Caspian is the largest oilfield outside the Middle-East) and mineral resources and show of grandeur in Astana the new purpose-built capital, has a third world road system. To look at the map we are traversing down the A3 down the east of the country.

Back in Russia and northern Kazakhstan grain was at an early stage, but after coming over one crest ripe fields appeared. I dropped into the one on the right. Bearded wheat, I suspect but the grains are still soft, not exactly ready for the combine yet. I suppose we are drifting south all the time and we are in July now. Might catch some harvesting within a few days.

At 100 km, not my usual practice, I stopped for a Coke stop thinking it was in a Kazakh yurt by the side of the road. No, that was just empty but I had the Coke anyhow; I arrived just as Mike and Frieder were moving off and standing for a photo.

By 2pm I pulled into the campsite on the bank of a river just beyond Sarkand. I had dropped into a shop in the town and picked up a can of beer (but I’m not showing a picture of that for fear of scandalising some readers!!) and took full pleasure in polishing it off on the bank of the cool looking river.

A day of variety and no wind to contend with.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Rest Day 8/11. Thursday June 30.

Rest Day.  8/11.    Usharal

A nice Rest Day in a small place. Not too much to distract one from the priority of resting and relaxing.

With no alarm set for an unearthly hour I spent a while on the balcony watching the orange sunset off to the west.

My mind, not focus sing on covering kilometres today it strays to a number of people at home. My best wishes to the “London Team” who are coming over to do the Ring of Kerry again on Saturday. My regards to you, lads, and go easy on the hydration on Friday night! 

My best wishes to Jim Burke of Kilfeacle who I believe is a faithful follower of this blog. Hope you enjoy the bits I pick up along the way, Jim.

 And Keith Hoare’s wedding up in Galway will be another centre of celebration for the weekend. My congratulations to you both and many happy years together. 

This morning after breakfast I decided to venture out on foot before the mid-day heat kicked in. Even at 10 am it was as hot as I would want any day in a good summer. Within yards of the front door I grabbed for the sunscreen. Later in the day it had crept up to 32C but locals here regard that as normal for this time of the year. January is a different story with the average low at -20C. Aren't we blessed in Ireland not to have those extremes. 

The centre of Usharal is compact and near to the hotel. Even at that hour cars (taxis) were parked in all types of positions, more abandoned than parked. Shops along the Main Street were either food markets or service shops (banks, mobile phones,etc). And sure enough there was an Irish presence on the shelves. About 20 Euro for the large bottle. I wondered where did people get shoes or clothes. I was on the lookout for insoles as I got tar on my own last Sunday (the day of the boiling feet). 

On the way back to the hotel I discovered the market, a large maze of lanes and alleys in a designated area carrying all the clothes, shoes etc that one would want. But no insoles of the type I needed and definitely not in size 46. I’ll manage.

People came and went with the daily shopping of vegetables etc using whatever mode of carriage was handiest. Quite a few bicycle shops also with parts and new bikes on offer.

I’d have liked to get a Kazakhstan tee-shirt to mark our passage through here but none to be seen. Plenty of the western types with Porsche, Ronaldo, Nike etc. The Union Jack is a popular sight here on bikes, tee-shirts etc.

I dropped into a busy hardware shop just outside the market and all the usual brands and machines on the walls and benches. Did pick up a few things that will be handy in the garage at home.......sometime.

Near our hotel in a different direction is a very modern looking Sports Centre and playing pitches with athletics track and open stand but nothing happening  at the time I passed. Nor was there much stirring at the adjacent mosque but a notice for visitors not to enter with shorts.

Did spend a while attending to the bike out behind the hotel but it was just cleaning and oiling and getting ready for the next 5-day stretch southwards to Almaty, the end of Stage 3.

Thank God for a lovely day.

Day 39. Wednesday. June 29.

  Taskesken to Ushural

Distance:  133 km

Cumulative Distance: 4233 km

Time: 5 hrs 48 min

Speed:  22.8 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 425

Cumulative Climb: 82,872  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 114 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight:       ft

Another cool calm night and breakfast this morning in the meadow was like a day on the bog.

Wind was only slight at the start and I decided to give it a lash and do a 50 km Time Trial myself without telling anyone. I went onto the big ring and pushed/pulled hard and passed some of the usual.

Mike and Frieder stayed with me for a while but fell off as I pushed up the pace. Even passed out Paul and Erwin again (much to their surprise) at 45 km and nodded to them saying I just couldn't stop. I did pull in at 50 km quite satisfied with myself with a time of 1 hr 45 mins at a speed of 28.4 km/hr.

Considering the state of the road, carrying a bag on my back and a trunk bag behind, that wasn't too bad.....and all done before 7.30 in the morning.  

After that 50 km I calmed down and waited for the two and we cycled together into lunch.....at 8.30 again. Jacob (staff) was his usual creative self capturing cyclists as they came in.

Road surface today was improved but not perfect. No gravel but plenty of potholes to be avoided. More trucks than before going in both directions and I pitied those drivers trying to navigate a safe passage along. Only the last 10 km into Ushural was consistently smooth and motorists along this stretch were callous at passing and overtaking.

Petrol and diesel here is just about 50c per litre but motorists spend more than us on shock absorbers. Kazakhstan is itself a major producer of oil especially over in the east near the Caspian Sea. Their location is an environmental worry as they are are located in the flood plains of the Caspian and some have been submerged by the 3m rise in the Caspian since the 1970s. They also have a giant off-shore oil field and any leaks there could put an end to the only breeding ground of the beluga sturgeon (white sturgeon) source of the world’s best caviar.

After lunch wind was still of little significance and it was interesting on both sides for the next 15 km. Small lakes appeared on both sides with plenty of tall reeds. This area is known as a bird lovers haven and the Kazakh state is attempting to develop the attraction. At one spot fishermen had a novel floating platform for their passion.

But not all lakes are in a healthy condition. Small ones I saw were almost dried up and just a crust of salt remaining. The Aral Sea (over near the Caspian) was almost the size of Ireland but Soviet decisions in 1950s to boost cotton production by heavy irrigation caused one of the world’s worst ecological disasters. The amount of water taken from the supply rivers doubled but production only increased by 20%. The water supply to the Aral in 1980 was only a tenth of the supply in the 1950s. At prsent it is divided into two separate small seas. Kasakhstan has its share of environmental problems.

For the last 50 km today wind picked up a notch and temperatures increased and then after crossing over the Siberian-Turkmenistan railway the road turned to face directly into it. From 92 to 127 km the road ahead was as straight as an arrow with no shelter.

Progress was curtailed and for this part Mike, Frieder and myself teamed up (as of old) and rotated every kilometre. We passed a few cycling alone and the teamwork brought us into destination at least half an hour earlier than if we cycled individually.

In time we caMe within sight of Ushural (U-SH-A-R-A-L) and passed through the city gate. It was a relieved threesome that parked up the bikes behind the hotel at 12.30.

It's not the hotel that TDA booked, the tourist board here decides which hotel in town you stay in (only two, anyhow). It's basic accommodation but the shave and shower was all that mattered at that stage.

O

After my laundry experience ion Semey, I d coded to do it myself.....not much anyhow. The hotel just washed clothes, no drying. Out on the balcony and they dried in jig time. From the balcony the whole town is in view.

A satisfying day of two halves and glad to get into the shade of the room in the early afternoon. All ready for the Rest Day tomorrow. I’ll see what’s about in Ushural - it is a very small place.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.