Day 30. Saturday. June 18

 Cherga to Gorno Altysk.

Distance:  94 km

Cumulative Distance: 3012 km

Time: 3 hrs 45 min

Speed:  25 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 1030

Cumulative Climb: 66,615  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 94 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 1050 ft

Today passed through the 3000 km point. As cycling goes it was a very easy day with the road dropping all the time with just a little rise here and there.

It was greenery all the way from the time we left the campsite (before 6) just outside Cherga still on the M52 to Gorno. For a change we cycled eastwards into the sun and with the road twisting and turning we played hide-and-seek with it during the early hours. We were out before the first cows were in for milking.

But still not much evidence of any land cultivation although the Altai Republic is generally regarded as a highly agricultural region. Steep hillsides with some of them covered in plantations that hosted umpteen cuckoos. I’ve heard it more in the last few days than I’ve heard in my whole life.

All this valley is very much devoted to tourism catering especially for wealthy Russians from neighbouring republics. This M52 is the principal road from north to south and the state has no rail system. Tents appeared in the woods and on the banks of the river almost to the edge of the city. By the river facilities for water activities abounded. 

After 32 km of glorious cycling we came to the bridge over the mighty Katun river. We all paused here to see where our river Sema (of yesterday and this morning) joined the silt-laden giant. The Katun starts in the Gebler glacier and after almost 700 km joins with the Biya to form the Ob just north of here and then flows into the Arctic Ocean (total length 3650 km) one of the three great rivers of Siberia. The other two are the Yenisei and Lena. The Katun actually freezes from mid November to mid April. Difficult to believe that seeing the surge of water.

At 50 km the souvenir stall holders were just setting up and we just couldn't resist. Most of their produce was from Mongolia in all the stalls we visited. Picked up a few things.

Lunch was at 70km and I dined in style with the usual hearty sandwich and caviar. Talk about posh ! And we had that lunch at quarter to nine in the morning (’to get a good run at the day’) right on the bank of the river. More shops across the road that I couldn't resist and I told the lads to cycle on.

By this stage traffic was getting heavier, and more dangerous. Most danger came from the front with cars and trucks passing others on this two carriageway stretch. Fortunately I had a gravel safety strip alongside. There weren't any near misses but vigilance was necessary.

In time it became a 4-lane road and a paved shoulder. Much more relaxed. Again thousands of those white butterflies flitted about with the odd one coming straight for the face.

Central Gorno is just off the M52 which gave us most of the feet gained today. The view just before dropping down into the city reminded me of a similar view down into Veliko Tărnovo (Bulgaria) on last year’s trip to Istanbul. All settled very comfortably down in a hollow with dwellings creeping up the hillsides.

Between there and the hotel I came across another World War 1 memorial and gain the dates are always 1941 (not 1939) to 1945.

For this Rest Day the group is split between two hotels about a kilometre apart. Luckily I have been granted a single room this time. Don't know how many others have had this upgrade. I like it.

Had a few jobs to do straight away (the bike will be done tomorrow). In Kosh Agach I bought a Russian sim card and data credit (2G) but nothing worked...No Service. I dropped into a MTC branch to enquire. Their English was like my Russian. But with the aid of an automatic translator on her phone we sorted out things. First I had to pay another 15 roubles (about 20c) for some reason and then 2Gig data was of no use for my card, I’d have to buy another 1 G for 100 roubles (1.20 Euro). And now all is working fine and blogs will go more frequently....but then we’re only another 4 days in Russia.

A few Euro needed to be changed. No problem locating a bank. The lady rejected my 50 euro note on visual inspection, her explanation was lost on me. So gave her 5 twenties. They got close visual inspection, were counted a few times, then put into the counting machine twice and each was examined by two different types of light in another machine. It was a lengthy process but she never asked for passport, which I have always been asked for. Anyhow, I have enough roubles to last me for the few days.

On the way back I passed what might be an Irish Pub, the man has the cut of a stagy Irishman and seems he’s fond of the ’CRAC’. I might check it out tomorrow.

Picked up a few things in the local supermarket and couldn't resist the strawberries on sale outside. They were fresh (once) but not a patch on those from Ballybrennan. The gent and assisting staff hadn't a word of English and it took a while to find out how much they cost. Deal done and he asked humourlessly ’English?’. No, says I, ’Eerland’. (Ireland doesn't click with them). He beamed with a new smile. It's been this reaction every time.

Now for a good rest after 30 days of cycling, two stages of my four stage tour. With my single room I might watch the Ireland v Belgium match later tonight on a Russian channel.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy. 

Day 29. Friday. June 17

  Onguday to Cherga Campsite.

Distance:  116 km

Cumulative Distance: 2918 km

Time: 5 hrs 43 min

Speed:  20.2 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 3243

Cumulative Climb: 65,585  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 104 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 1882 ft

First, today is such a big day for Barry and Niamh on the occasion of their wedding. I should be there but Margaret will fulfill both roles admirably, I’m sure. All the cyclist here send their best wishes and raise their glasses to both of you. Many years of happiness together.

There was a scare forecast yesterday that heavy rain was due but it turned out to be a perfect dull day suitable for the morning’s climb.

Re mosquito bites; had a scratch-free night and a good long sleep due possibly to the immersion sessions in the river or to the ointment that Mike kindly gave me.

We hit out of camp along a dirt road of 4 km past a gravel plant before rejoining the highway at Onguday, a large town sitting comfortably in a valley. Nothing much stirring there yet as we pass by just before 6am. All cyclists set out knowing that the day's work would be completed early unlike yesterday.

So many of the old weathered traditional houses look as if they have been taken out of a “Fiddler on the Roof” set. Side by side they tilt against each other as if built with no foundation. The general colour scheme of a village is black/brown.

The profile for today's ride was an inverted V, up to 60 km and then down to day’s end at 116 km. For the duration of the day we moved along much wider valleys than yesterday and thus not as spectacular.

The road started to rise at 38 kn and no ease up till 60 km, i.e 22 km of a climb lifting over 3000 ft. It had 3 lifts at 9% each lasting between 1 and 2 km. It kept just rising and rising. But no great heat to contend with. The two lads went ahead and I ploughed on at my own pace.

In time the top of Seminsky Mountain Pass appeared in the distance, nothing as sudden as yesterday but welcome. Again lots of stalls selling honey, pine nuts and knitwear from Mongolia.

Naturally I was very pleased with this second major climb in two days. 3000 feet climbed and done before 10 am. 

We met up in a small Coke stop for our first reward for completing the task. It went down well. T’was extra windy and chilly up here and we all put back on the jackets and leg warmers. Ready for the corresponding descent.

Then our second reward.....7 km  down at 10%. But I took it handy to enjoy the spin as long as possible. Flowers are beginning to bloom and add colour to our surroundings. Down nearly at the end of the descent lunch stop awaited.

From lunch the road generally descended with the odd rise. As yesterday the road is regularly marked with memorials to victims of traffic accidents. Happens everywhere. Also householders had jars of honey on sale all along the way but I didn't see much selling activity.

Landscape along here looked familiar with green hedgerows and fences dividing the land. Spring flowers brightened the roadside adding contrast to the distant hills.

Since this morning traffic has indeed been heavier in both directions but a two-foot wide shoulder and a generous gravel verge helps. Motorists and truckers have been accommodating and courteous and no close shaves have been reported.

Especially over the last 15 km white butterflies have been flitting by in their thousands, sometimes coming straight at you. They are all of the same type and I captured a few of them on flowers and on the gravel. (And, I passed them all, Pat!)

Tonight's campsite is across a shaky bridge, down a dirt road and located on the bank of the Cema river and cabins were available for upgrading. With a dodgy forecast for the night I opted to do so and am sharing with Paul in one of the finest cabins. Not bad for less than a tenner and I clocked in at 1 pm.

Plenty of time to wash and organise before we all met at 4.30. First item on the agenda was to drink health to the newly married couple. Slainte.

Tomorrow, some cyclists will come to the end of their involvement in Silk Route 2016 when they arrive in Gorno. So Dan, Par, Peter, Liz and Joost received their special Jessie's and medals to mark the occasion. Sandy also finishes but has gone on to Gorno already. Before dinner and Riders Meeting, a drinks and nibbles party was held and indeed continued on afterwards.

As I write the dancing and music is continuing with the hard-core still bopping. Probably the same at the wedding.

But, the alarm will sound at 4.30 in the morning and another 95 km to be done to Gorno. And then a well earned Rest Day after a 7 day stint.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.