Day 24. Sunday June 12.

 Ulaangom to Lake View Camp 13

Distance:  88 km

Cumulative Distance: 2580 km

Time: 6 hrs 04 min

Speed:  14.4 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 4141.

Cumulative Climb: 52,664  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4717 ft

Back on the road for a 7 day stretch that will bring us into Russia. And will see the end of the off-road till Kyrgyzstan.

Mostly an off-road day but less punishing than last week.

Breakfast was at 5.30 in the hotel and a local Ulaangom cycle group volunteered to lead us out as far as the city gate. They were on a variety of mountain bikes and held a farewell ceremony at the city gate to wish us well on our journey.

As in Erlianhaote, each was offered a sip of milk from hands draped in the traditional blue ribbon. Also they presented each of us with a sweet and a small souvenir of Mongolia. One of the girls went about flicking milk into the air to the spirits of the air. It was a pleasantly touching effort by these lists.

The first 37 km out of Ulaangom was paved, not perfect tarmacadam but at this stage we’re not fussy. We had left at 5.45 so we cast long shadows out yo the left. Just 15 km out we passed by Ulaangom Airport, as all regional one much like Kerry Airport. Not very busy as we passed at this early hour.

At the 37 km mark we turned off to the right to follow the A16 all the way to the Russian frontier. Now we were back on dirt road as it snaked its way through the pass, our first climb of the day. The surface all the way up was less unfriendly than last week. No sand and no washboard along this 12 km climb with a 5% gradient for most of it and upping to 10% for a number of lifts near the top.

It started in open country and gradually wound its way around crags as it rose. The red hue to the sides gives rise to its name Ulaan Davaa (Red Pass) and the top came at 6200 ft. Not a minute too soon. Up here it was very cold, much colder than when we set out almost 4 hours earlier. Jackets on again.

At the top was the expected ovoo, the largest one we have seen yet. I stepped up on it to take a photo with snow capped peaks in the far-off background. A local man came by and by the tone of what he barked at me, I gathered that shouldn't have been up there.

As we  had lunch at the pass, a number of minibuses came by and stopped, passengers alighted and walked around it throwing on a stone. I spotted one lady flicking milk into the air again.

It was a cold steep descent from that pass but it levelled out onto pleasant field tracks with smooth surface. Snow was visible all around on peaks over 3000 metres.

Then came the second climb, just gradual for 3.7 km and then a sharp rise for the last few hundred metres. The gradient and the loose surface meant dismounting and walking and pushing for those metres. Joan was following on just behind us.

There in front of us was Charlie with his first puncture. Dan was not only rectifying matters but also conducting a detail tutorial on Procedures of Tube Repair. Charlie with his patience saw the humorous aspect of it all.

Soon after a mother steep descent started down a rubble strewn winding canyon. I took it very easy and was cautious in the extreme. It kept winding and twisting forever till it opened on a spectacular view with a road continuing on.

But our road swung to the right with spectacular views over Uureg Nuur, a large freshwater lake surrounded by 3000 m peaks. According to locals, it has plenty of fish and is one of the few mosquito-free lakes in Mongolia. I sat on top of a small hill on the roadside just taking it all in. Impossible to capture it on film. And all around not a sign of the hand of man apart from the field tracks - no gers, no animals, no fences just virgin nature.

Our campsite tonight is just a few hundred metres from the lakeshore. There are a few gers and cabins for rent and some cyclists upgraded. I didn't bother; I get a better night’s sleep in the tent.

Went down to the water to wash and to just admire the fabulous scene.

For dinner tonight, our Mongolian drivers directed matters and cooked a whole sheep, with potatoes and veg. When you located the parts of lean meat, it was tasty and all had a go at enjoying it.

Tomorrow, our last full day in Mongolia, will involve a bridge-less river crossing. Andreas is gone out scouting that crossing just now to see its present condition. So, no route for tomorrow yet. Will have that in the morning.

Thank Godforthe health and thank Godfor the energy.