Rest Day 5 / 11. Saturday June 11.

Rest Day 5 / 11.       Ulaangom 

Great and refreshing to have a well- earned Rest Day, our last Rest Day in Mongolia. On Tuesday we enter Russia.

Woke up refreshed this morning in spite of some disturbance on the corridor after midnight that I slept soundly through (bit of a change). But the new time zone threw me out. We put the clock back 1 hour and in my own mind I put breakfast time (8 till 10 local time) back to 7 till 9 and was up ready for the Full Mongolian fry at 7. Not a sign of anyone in reception apart from the receptionist asleep in a sleeping bag on a couch. Back to the room and another 2 hours of rest. I wasn't the only one to mess up.

When breakfast time did arrive (9 am in our old time) and almost all assembled in the foyer, news came that the chef had slept it out but should be along soon. Not the Full Mongolian either, just a one- egg omelette on bread and I had my first cup of tea since leaving Tipp. And it was made in a cup......not the real thing! 

Early this morning it was raining and very dull and those mighty Kharkhiraa mountains just outside town were in cloud. A perfect day to be off the road. But from 11 am the day cleared up and perfectly warm sunny and balmy in the afternoon. Ulaangom is regarded as the coldest city in Mongolia with winter temperatures of -45 deg (long cold winters and short warm summers) and just 5 inches of annual rainfall. In fact, Ulaangom means ’Red Valley’ which would be Gleann Rua (Glenroe) but I doubt if Dinny, Miley and Biddy would settle comfortably here.

All hands on deck after breakfast dealing with bike maintenance and cleaning. And Jordan was on hand to rectify squeaks and other problems. My steed (PacAt) was showing the signs of days in dust and sand but nothing that a rag and old toothbrush (and lubrication) and afterwards was looking almost like new. I ask myself why did I bother cleaning it....20 mins on the road tomorrow morning and it’ll be back to square one. In the afternoon. I took it out for a spin (6 km) to get a feel of the city (pop 22,000).

The centre is quirte compact with all commercial activity concentrated along just one street and a market, which I didn't venture to. Just off those few main streets it's just dirt surfaces.

Many gers in backyards and I came across one just being erected and another piled up against a fence  and ready for the construction squad to arrive.

On my trip around I went down by Dechinravjaalin Khiid a Buddhist monastery founded in 1738 with 2000 monks at one stage but Stalin destroyed the establishment in 1937 (up to 30,000 monks killed or sent to labour camps in Siberia). Freedom of religion was only restored in 1990 shot partly after the democratic revolution. This monastery she'll now boasts just 20 monks.

I dropped into another bearing a cross outside to find out that it's a Baptist establishment. Haven't seen many crosses since this cycle started.

In the main plaza stands a monument to Tsedenbal who was born in this province of Uvs and governed Mongolia for 40 years during the Communist era.

The streets today are festooned with election posters and at banks and other public buildings people were arriving and leaving with printed sheets. I stood and observed what was going on but no point in asking anyone for information. Maybe it was just registration (spotted what looked like copies of passports in some people's hands ) Might check it out tonight. Will keep you posted!

The aimag (provincial) flag and national flag are of red and blue bearing the soyambo (national emblem since 1911). Three flames on top (past, present and future), sun and crescent moon (Mongolia will last forever), two triangles (points of spear and arrow), two horizontal rectangles (stability at top and bottom of society), ying-yang circle (mutual complement of man and woman) and two vertical rectangles (walls of a fort for unity and strength). I see one of these soyambo smirked out high on a hillside just outside town.

After my short cycle about, paid a visit to the shops to put an end to my supply of Tog. The supermarket next door was a popular spot for all of us topping up snacks etc for the next 7-day stretch. Spotted Baileys (roughly 30 Euro/litre and Sheridans on the shelves). My Rest Day treat was a taste of an old favourite from way back. It came in Merlot, Cabernet and Riesling.

Almost all shops show no sign outside of what merchandise is inside. But Next Electronics caught my eye and it had all mod-cons - could have got a 65 inch TV for 350,000 Tog (roughly 1700 Euro). Didn't bother ......wrong plug!!

Coming near the end of the day now and bags must be finally packed, have an early dinner and off to bed shortly after 8. None of us will hardly drop into the nightclub/karaoke right at the entrance to the hotel.

 Breakfast at 5.30 in the morning. 

Thank God for a lovely day.

Day 23. Friday June 10.

 Lizard Bush Camp to Ulaangom.

Distance:  86 km

Cumulative Distance: 2492 km

Time: 5 hrs 27 min

Speed:  15.8 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 733

Cumulative Climb: 48,523  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 112 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 3109 ft

Great sleep last night and no interference from our friendly lizards. Felt ready for the final push into Ullangom and the prospect of a Rest Day. It was an extremely mild morning and I started off with a layer less than on previous days.

Shortly after 6.30 we (Mike, Frieder and I) pulled out onto the road and for the first few kilometres quite a few riders occupied the space. It normally takes awhile for the various groups to divide up....except for the speedsters who rush breakfast and tear off as if this is a race; maybe they are having an unofficial battle for podium positions! The first 15 km was fine and acceptable as offroad; it was possible to find a smoothish path by switching from track to track. But one had to keep eyes on the road; not a time for taking out the camera.  

After 15 km till 70 km it was hell. Washboard and sand and continually switching from left to right (100m) to find an easier path. By lunch time everyone was jaded and all had been asking themselves the question “Why, Why am I doing this?”

Along this stretch it was billard table flat. Those a few kilometres in front never disappeared out of sight. Totally flat to the left and right; nothing to distract. Far out to the right was Uvs Nuur, the largest lake in Mongolia covering 3400 sq metres but only with a depth of 12 m. It's saline and 5 times saltier than ocean water, with no edible fish and no outlet. It's rich in bird life but with clouds of mosquitoes. It just appeared as a blue horizontal streak with mountains in the far-off background.

After about 30 km Mike and Frieder fell behind and I ploughed on. They arrived as I was ready to leave lunch. No one was awfully keen to leave the haven of the lunch stop, knowing that only more punishment was in store.

Not a lot of animals in this part of the high desert; not a lot of gers either. Spotted a herd of camels being tended by a young girl. They didn't look too healthy in terms of coat or condition.

At 70 km a bridge appeared in the distance and from today's directions I knew that was the start of the paved road into Ullangom. Sheer pleasure.

Once on the pavement I gave her leather and pounded the pedals to block out the memory of the previous torturous 70 km. I passed a few cyclists and motored up the 2 hills over the last 10 km into Ullangom.

Passed through the city gate and there was the city below me with a backdrop of mountains 10,000 ft high capped with snow.

Didn't take too long to locate the hotel and arrived at Chinngis Hotel at 1.30. (It's never Gingis Khan here but Chinngis) Glad to be in to rest for the rest of the day and tomorrow.

Being in early I was there while water was available, but no towels. The shower and shave was a simple pleasure, but no towels. Had to use my travel towel. In time towels arrived but then the city's water supply went down and late-comers had to wait a few hours. Hotels here don't get an influx of guests like this every day.

Started to reorganise bags, get laundry done, upload the blogs of the last few days and charge the various devices. I'm now ready to relax and rest before the next part.

Two more days of off-road. By that time we’ll have done over 1100 km of tough off-road here in Mongolia i.e from Mizen up to Malin Head and back to Tipp.

Ah well, all part of the adventure.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy. 

Day 22. Thursday June 9.

 Turuun Bush Camp  to Lizard Bush Camp 12

Distance:  101 km

Cumulative Distance: 2406 km

Time: 6 hrs 00 min

Speed:  16.8 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 535

Cumulative Climb: 47,790  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 103 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 2922 ft

Great to be back on the bike again and feeling energetic. Had a great sleep last night; no wind, no disturbance. It was quite mild when we arose this morning and the extra layer was on for just a short while.

The first 40 km was rough but manageable, without too much sand or washboard. By this stage our average speed was 20 km/ Jr. And promising for the day.

By the way, our road today and for the last few days is marked on the map as the A18. Most of the roads marked on the map are just tracks like these. Very few paved roads.

Had a number of river crossings today. For the first on at 8km while we were still cold enough, I opted to remove the shoes and walk across. Clean feet. After lunch, when temperatures were well up, I just walked across shoes and all. Knew that they’d dry out in a matter of minutes. There were other shallow ones that we just cycled right through.

The principal ingredient in today's cycle was sand. Not the sand of the Gobi but the Lawrence of Arabia type, pure sapping beach sand. For a continuous 32 km it brought us to our feet many times. No option but to walk and push the bike, sometimes up a sandy hill. The sand by the side of the road would do credit to any Blue Beach. Saoirse and Oisin, hope we can get sand like that at some beach when ye are in Tipp in July/August!

Today's cycle was a crossing of the high desert of Uvs aimag, generally accepted as the most northerly sand desert on the planet. We must be some of the first crazy cyclists to cross it. Regularly giant sand dunes appeared on the sides. It was usually when we are stopped or walking that we spotted these. When cycling, full attention had to be given to the few feet in front picking out which track to take.

Only one town on today's route, Zuungovi. It was a typical town with a large gate announcing it well outside the town on a high spot on the road. The first shop I spotted gave me a surprise - it registered with me as “Ryan's”. Had to do a second take to make sure. A park in the centre of the town featured a sculpture of a horse with extra generous tail and mane. I know that these are features of the taiki horse, a wild horse peculiar to Mongolia.

As we halted at the shop, a few boys came by and illustrated how we are under-utilising our machines by limiting them to just one rider.

Between Zuungovi and lunch at the top of a sandy hill we walked right by a ger with kids playing outside. As we tried to engage more and more appeared out from the ger, and then the adults. Had a couple of photos and then I presented them with an Ireland pennant to hang in the ger. They seemed pleased, but better if I had some sweets for the kids. These folk had no English, but last evening a local mother and child dropped by the tents with a good grasp of English, she had learned it in school and wished to practice her English with ’native’ speakers. Literacy in Mongolia is at 98% especially among girls. They go to school in the big towns and reside in dorms. Boys tend to stay at home and help with the livestock.

Lunch was by a large lake in this desert; there are a large number of them in the area.

From 72 km till camp, we were spared the sand but plenty of washboard. Landscape stretched away in the distance on both sides.

 Our campsite in in the middle of a billiard table with little growth but plenty of friendly little white lizards (about 5 cm long) flitting about. 

Two cameras lost today with cards full of photos in them. One gent lost his Canon SLR on some rocky piece. He went back to search but up to 16 tracks across on any stretch of the road. 

Again hoping for a calm night with no wind (not much shelter where we are) and a good refreshing sleep.

Thank God for the health and for the energy.

Day 21. Wednesday June 8

. Tes Bush Camp to Turuun Bush Camp 11.

Distance:  0 km

Cumulative Distance: 1938 km

Time: 0 hrs 00 min

Speed:  0 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 0

Cumulative Climb: 37,564  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate)    bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4629 ft

Well, I sat it out in the van today. It's the first time I’ve done this on the long cross country cycles. But with cause.

Last night just after retiring at 9pm a a strong wind blew up that grew into a full blown storm (force 7 or 8, 30 m/sec). It started rather suddenly and the sides of the tent blowing in on me. Can deal with a certain amount of that. But after an hour or so of this relentless force the tent was bending to the horizontal. Darkness was just falling and lightning added to the trauma. Our campsite was out in the wide open flat area about 2 km outside Tes. Other tents were suffering the same fate. The strong winds gave rise to a and storm and fine sand sand came through and began to cover everything inside. I struggled to hold the tent with my back against the bulging sides. My gear was scattered throughout the tent ready for the morning.

After almost 2 hours the tent finally collapsed on me. Andreas came by calling for people to come to the kitchen tent to organise some place to shelter from this storm especially with lightning present. I crawled out of the collapsed mess with just my jacket and sleeping bag. Those whose tents were still standing moved them closer to the vans utilising them as a windbreak. Mine was a lost cause. A gang of about 6 of us dashed out, removed the poles and just wrapped everything up in the tarp. Carried it to the van like a body bag and dumped it in the back. Just at this point the rains started.

A general of impending pandemonium was likely to result but TDA staff reacted positively. They sourced some dormitory accommodation in Tes at that late hour for those whose tents were beyond use. Some of those with tents still standing waited in the vans for the storm to pass and did return to them well after midnight.

This experience by itself was a trauma and draining. I have been camping in wind and rain but never in anything of this scale. Nor would I wish to again.

The vans brought 9 of us into these dorms in Tes. Three rooms, five beds in each, no light and a big-drop toilet outside in the back. Still, we were in out of the storm.

I settled down with my sleeping bag for a restorative night’s sleep. No such luck. One of the cyclists in our room certainly had a good night’s sleep judging by the sounds and the snoring, but no such luck for the rest of us. Also worrying about the state of tent and things. Got about an hour’s sleep before rising. Neither of these experiences is the way to prepare for a day’s ride. I would have been starting out on empty.Rising and breakfast was delayed by an hour. By this time I had decided not to ride today and take the van to Turuun.

Before breakfast I recovered my tent pile from the van to examine any damage and to pack all away. Everything was in a pile inside - camera, phone set to alarm, Garmin on charge and cycling clothes for today, passport, cards, money etc. Glad to report that no damage was done to the tent or contents and all still dry. (Others had broken poles and a helmet was blown away). I was relieved that all was intact and in order to take on another night.

The morning was dry with light headwind. Cyclists set out an hour late after breakfast. My bike up on top of the van (not a nice sight) and we left at 8.30 (6 cyclists in all)

The 110 km to Turuun in the van actually felt much longer. These Russian vans move at about 40 km/hr over this sandy washboad surface. Those corrugations don't make the van vibrate like the bike, it's more a noise nuisance.

We halted briefly at the lunch stop and finally arrived in Turuun at 1.30. So, I was one of the first to have the tent erected. There's a bit of a wind blowing just now (4pm) but I hope we don't have a repeat of last night.

Naturally I’m disappointed to have missed out on the ride. Sitting in camp as the other riders come in givesriseto a very empty useless feeling. 

But, please God, I’ll  get a satisfactory night’s sleep tonight and be ready for the off in the morning.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

 

Day 20. Tuesday June 7.

River Camp to Tes Bush Camp 10.

Distance: 124 km

Cumulative Distance: 2305 km

Time: 7 hrs 52 min

Speed:  15.7 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 3042

Cumulative Climb: 47,255  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 110 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4221 ft

First let me wish all those starting their Leaving and Junior Certain exams tomorrow every success. Keep at it and don't give up the effort.

Today was a tough day as promised. Some just rode to lunch, some took the van to camp and others were picked up along the route. I cycled the full route.

This morning was much milder than yesterday morning with more clouds in the sky. Tent was dry and ready for packing. For breakfast we had hot porridge; the breakfast we should have had yesterday. Pleasant to sit around outside and chat about the day ahead.

Came across a family erecting a ger this morning near the campsite. Doesn't take long to erect. Came across another family en route to a new location with all the had on the back of a small truck. Later in the day I spotted a family just putting the finishing touches to their new location.

Today's surface was difficult to deal with. It was predominantly washboard and sand. Cycling on the washboard (corrugations) couldn't be avoided - it was like cycling on a tubular cattle grid from Tipp to Cork. Sometimes it was an option to take the motorbike single track but it demanded more concentration. The last 25 km was especially difficult in this respect when I was most fatigued.

Sand (as fine as sea sand) was another factor in today's ride. It put a stop to all movement and when deep it meant just dismounting. On occasions then washboard and sand combined to punish us. (I started the day with Mike and Frieder but dropped them on the first climb up to 58 km. Mike took the van from lunch.) Frieder caught up with me in Tes as I picked up a Coke and a beer for camp. We cycled into camp just a km further on to cheers from the early arrivals.

We had 3 stiff climbs today on this awful off-road surface, at 58 km, at 95 km and a very stiff on at 101 km. For this last one it was a matter of walking the last 500 m. Luckily the van was waiting at the top to replenish water supplies. When one climb was finished, the long road ahead to the next one opened up ahead.

Again a few stream crossings. At the largest one I opted to have a go at cycling through knowing that the feet would get wet. The promised heat later on would dry the out. Got through on the first attempt.

Came through just 2 towns today, Bayantes and Tes just back the road. Flagging was good in both cases. Out of Bayantes it was straight into a climb up by rocky outcrops.

For the last 3 km there was a nice drop down into Tes (with washboard). I stopped there at the local shop and cooled down with a Coke. As I drank, a family came by and engaged in conversation in spite of language differences. The mother was Mongolian but the child had a Russian father. We're only 20 km from Russia here in Tes.

Glad to get into camp at 4.15. It gave me  couple of hours to attend to tent and to enjoy soup and a cool beer.

Was very hot but a sudden shower came just at the end of dinner but made little impact on the surface of the ground.

Looking forward to lying down in the cool tent and get a refreshing sleep to boost energy for tomorrow's ride.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.