Saturday, June 25, 2016

Rest Day. 7 / 11. Saturday. June 25

Rest Day.   7/11    Semey (Kazakhstan)
Glad of the Rest Day and extra happy with the single room. Just easier to lie down as I wish and use the full space. My room (602) is at the back of the hotel so spared the noise of traffic etc during the night. And no worries about mosquitos.
The hotel, Nomad Hotel, is regarded as the best in Semey and centrally located. Semey (pop 300 thousand) was known as Semipalatinsk till 2007.
A thing that I have noticed in hotels since Mongolia is that stairs can be dangerous; not all steps have the same rise. Some, even in the middle of the run, can be extra shallow or extra deep. Need to keep the eyes down or could get a nasty jolt. Also in a few hotels, the room doors open out into the corridor. In the hotel in Moron, I thought I was locked into the bathroom till I found that you turn the handle up to open.
Had the laundry done by the hotel again....getting lazy. Hotel laundry so far has been inexpensive but the Nomad might send me back to doing my own. I had the smallest was ever, really just 3 sets of cycling gear and it set me back over 22 euro. Makes up for getting internet cheap. Some of the lads did their own but they had the rooms at front of hotel for drying. My window just looks out on a wall.
After breakfast the first item on the agenda for the whole group was to go to the nearby police station to register our arrival in the country. In all other countries, the first hotel does that. Kazakhstan still believes in plenty of paperwork. We were given a dedicated official for the group (including our Kazakh local guide) but the process took over an hour and a quarter. Didn't look like happy campers to be spending a Rest Day like this.
The bikes got special attention but mine just needed a good wash. Reckoned that I did a good job with bucket of water, brush and rag. But another reprimanded me for using water; should be using baby-wipes only! By the way, the word Kazakh is a Turkic word that means free rider or adventurer. Must have a drop of their blood in me.
In the early afternoon I cycled across one channel of the Irytish river to Polkovnochy Island. The Irytish is one of the big three rivers in Siberia. It rises in the Altai mountains in China, flows for 4800 km through Kazakhstan and Russia before joining the Ob. We’ll cross it all tomorrow. Typically the rails of the bridge is a site for those love-locks.
My target was a monument on the island. The area west of Semey was the Soviet nuclear testing ground, the Polygon, between 1949 and 1989. Villagers living nearby were given no knowledge or protection as almost 500 nuclear bombs were exploded underground and in the atmosphere. The tragic effects still linger in the form of cancers, genetic mutations and mental illness. President Naserbaev finally closed the site in 1991.
Just across the bridge stands the Stronger than Death Memorial erected in 2001 featuring a mother covering her child while above a nuclear mushroom cloud billows on a 30 m high black tombstone. It's the centrepiece in a large public park on the island.
On the way back I passed through the square in front of the Theatre and the City Hall while the fountains were in operation.
The park just across the road from the hotel was busy this evening with parents and children. Every type of ride and amusement for a warm Saturday evening. One guy in particular was enjoying the trampoline.
For dinner I didn't venture too far, just around the corner, and dined on my own rather than with a group. I wanted to get back early to do this. My dish was quail and salad and very fast too. With a pint of draught beer it all came to less than 8 euro. Not bad. 
On the TV in the room I watched Jamie Oliver doing a demonstration and he fluent in Kazakh! Switched to the sport channel and there is Billy Walsh of Wexford in the corner at a boxing tournament in Baku.
Early night tonight; long day tomorrow of 188 km and alarm set for 4 am. Back to the day job! 

Thank God for a lovely day.
 

Day 35. Friday. June 24.

  Rubtsovsk (Russia) to Semey (Kazakhstan)

Distance:  158 km
Cumulative Distance: 3667 km
Time: 7 hrs 12 min
Speed:  21.6 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 2259
Cumulative Climb: 76,357  ft 
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 108 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.     
Altitude tonight: 744 ft

Friday and today marks the end of the Leaving Cert. Hope all students of Leaving and Junior get the results according to their wishes and efforts. Enjoy the summer now and stay safe.
 Because of the border crossing today, breakfast was earlier than usual at 5 am. Thought we’d beat the mossies but failed. But they weren't as violent as other mornings. All out on the road shortly after that.
The early kilometres brought us through a quiet Rubtsovsk. It has a population of 150 thousand (with a university) and is a centre for the manufacture of tractors and agricultural machinery and also the production of flour. It also boasts an electric tram system but the road we took through the accommodation section was rough and potholed.
Once out of town I came across a sight I hadn't seen since Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia, a train and rail tracks. This particular train driver gave a toot in response to my wave. Nice.  Crossing these tracks could be disastrous - a very wide gap beside the rail, could wreck a wheel.
I cycled today on my own and moved along briskly with just the minimum of stops. Road surface out of town was perfect and when not running by the railway, it passed greenery.
The border crossing appeared ahead after 38 km at 7 am, both Russia out and Kazakhstan in very close to each other. There were nine of us there more or less at the same time and were cleared right through in an hour. Much more efficient than Mongolia to Russia and possible to go through as cyclist or pedestrian even.
After the crossing, I expected the road surface to be excellent for a stretch (it usually is just after a crossing) but we were now on roughish tar and chippings  that demanded that extra bit of energy output. This road all the way to Semey (110 km) had its share of large potholes (and plenty of smaller ones) in the centre and along the edge. Where they had been repaired it meant a clunk going up and a clunk coming off. Also each 10 metres or so a weather caused crack right across also gave the bike a rattle. I expected a better surface along here from the border to a major city. Not complaining; I have been on worse roads !!!
After the border, I spotted Paul (Neth) and Erwin, (Ger) two of the stronger riders, far ahead and set about reeling them in (not much interesting scenery along here to distract). Caught up and drafted behind them till 56 km when I was due to take on more fuel - I had a sandwich and egg from the breakfast table and stop to eat every 2 hours or so.
Today's route was flat and featureless. No hill of note and the small ring (of three) had a day off. It alternated between grass steppe and forestry. Plenty of trucks passed towards the city with logs and cut timber. So the 110 km after the border was a bit of a drag and wearisome and I wasn't the only one who thought so.
We’ll be in Kazakhstan for 15 more days (11 cycling days) a country with a population of only 17 million (70% Muslim) but the size of Western Europe (before Brexit). It's the 9th largest state in the world and the largest land-locked one. It’ll be interesting to see how it differs from Russia and Mongolia as we move further south. Our route moves down the eastern flank of the country......check your map.
But some things never change....cows and horses on the road and dogs. Also lots of broken-down large production units as seen in Russia also. Some of the usual crops along the way but taking second place to grass.
Watches put back an hour when we reached Semey so now just 5 hours ahead of Ireland. At first glance Semey looks like the first ’normal’ city since Beijing (with the exception of parts of Ulaanbaatar).
Arrived safely into the central hotel (cycled the last 30 km with Mike (NZ) and William (Eng)) and got a single room again. Hadn't been expecting a repeat of that.
After a good shower and scrub, it was off to the bank to arrange currencies. No big fuss like the last time and now loaded with Tenge (KZT) getting 374 for the Euro.
SIM card ; into a shopping mall across the road and all fixed up (and installed in 5 minutes. 15 Gig data for a month for the cost of 4.80 Euro. Pity can't get that at home. So, blog updates should be up on a daily basis while here.
Tomorrow morning we need to go to the police station to register our presence in the country. That's a first. Then bike and I’ll see what's of interest about but don't intend to venture too far.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.


Thursday, June 23, 2016

Day 34. Thursday June. 23.

 Charysh River to Rubtsovsk Bush Camp 20.

Distance:  159 km
Cumulative Distance: 3509 km
Time: 7 hrs 16 min
Speed:  21.9 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 3000
Cumulative Climb: 74,098  ft 
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 108 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.     
Altitude tonight: 750 ft

Last evening with the wind blowing, the mosquitoes weren't too aggressive, but this morning all was calmer and more dangerous. People took their breakfast and ate it walking about...on the go. They left as soon as possible and regrouped up on the road where all was more relaxed.
Today is our last full day in Russia and we’ve seen a variety of scenery since we entered two weeks ago. The first town of  Krasnaschiokovo at 3 km has adopted the Mongolian custom of a city gate.
Today was a rolling day with most of the work in the morning. The first crest was reached at 17 km and from the top a road stretched ahead for 9.8 km. Wind was almost non-existent at this point and it passed quickly.
Big point of interest today was the town of Kurya at 40 km which is the birthplace of Kalashnikov (1919 - 2013). We hoped to see some of his prototypes in the museum dedicated to his memory in the centre of town but shortly after 7am was a little early to expect it open.
Here in Kurya I saved a group from going astray. A bit out the road I raised the possibility that we had missed a turn. Some insisted we had taken the turn. But, we returned to the centre of town (beside the museum) and then spotted the orange tape pointing in a different direction onto the K09. I had been right......naturally!
The road rose and fell but at 53 km a headwind rose up to punish us. It made it difficult to maintain even a speed of 14 km/hr. This remained so till lunch at 80 km. An interesting lake had been mentioned as a possible place to visit but due to the wind no one opted to go there.
I decided to take a break at 70 km and headed into a shop for a bit of refreshment and succeeded in picking up some Mosquito Spray as well. Good decision.
Approaching lunch stop on top of a plateau many unusual rock formations cropped up, some similiar to an eagle. The lunch stop marked a change of direction (from south east to west) and the formerly headwind now assisted progress. Before leaving lunch, Mike (NZ) had a plan in case he met any more climbs along the way.
From this 80 km mark all was plain sailing till the end except for the odd sharp rise. From 100 to 120 km we were on that part of the road used by mining trucks drawing from the mine to the production site and returning. Most pulled out a bit as they passed but some insisted on keeping their line and their swish (if unexpected) could blow one onto the gravel. With the mirror, I could see them coming but still it made things a bit uncomfortable.
Another item mentioned on today's directions was a Great Patriotic War Memorial. When I arrived there it looked somewhat unkempt and less than glorious.
Our campsite tonight is on the banks of the Alan river almost in the centre of Rubtsovsk and again those little fellows are here to annoy us. But, I’m prepared (the staff have also supplied amounts of spray for everyone for the first time). Had a refreshing swim in the river before dinner.
Early start in the morning at 5 am (due to the border crossing) so the alarm sounds at 4. Time to call it a day and hit the sack.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.


Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Day 33. Wednesday. June 22.

 Petropavlovskoe to Charysh River Bush Camp 19

Distance: 130 km
Cumulative Distance: 3350 km
Time: 6 hrs 39 min
Speed:  19.6 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 3300
Cumulative Climb: 71,098  ft 
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 103 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.     
Altitude tonight: 825 ft

Being Midsummer Night, the sun stayed high and warm in the sky last night. Couldn't even attempt to go to bed till things cooled down. Heavy showers were in the distance in two different directions. I walked up along the bank of the river to pass the time. When I did eventually settle down, got a great night’s sleep.   
Place covered with fog and haze when I emerged this morning. Quick breakfast and on the road being given a 80% chance of rain. We started out together but I generally rode solo; we leap frogged each other many times and met up at lunch. Rear lights were in full use and visibility ahead was down to a short distance.
At the 10 km mark with a little rise away from the river, the sky cleared and all got warmer. But the road surface changed also...for the worse. From there till 40 km it was gravel but not like a few weeks ago.
 This stretch involved the first climb and descent of the day over a cloudy ridge complete with bus shelter on the remote top. It was a glorious gradual descent with scarcely a ar in sight.
Later we had a stretch from 50 to 56 km of broken pavement. Again it was easy to pick a smooth passage due to the lack of traffic. From lunch on it was mostly friendly off-road except for the last 7 km from Karlovo to our camp.
Plenty of the same crops and grass on both sides of the route today. Farmyards and cows on the way out during the early hours of the morning. I didn't drop into any fields to examine the growth. With the gravel and broken pavement all attention was given to the few feet ahead.
It was a rolling day, climbing just over 3000 feet and giving it all back. Most of the stiffer rolls were on gravel needing a lower gear. There was one long climb on Tarmac just before lunch introduced by ’8% for 4.6 km’ and then an easier gradient for the final 2 km to the lunch stop on a breezy chilly top at 65 km.
Some great panoramic views of meadow and crop during the second half of the day. Dropping into the village of Lemachikna shortly after lunch, disused piggeries first caught the eye. Cycling through the village, most dwellings seemed abandoned. I wonder is this a monument to collectivisation?
Had a couple of episodes with dogs to day but all ended with them retreating to safety.
Tonight (Bush Camp 19) we are on the banks of the Charysh river, a fast flowing one that swings north to join the Ob. A pleasant breeze is blowing and keeping the mosquitoes at bay. Hope it remains that way as it gets cooler.
I notice that the number of hits on the blog exceeds the number of kilometres I have cycled. Let’s keep it that way.
A nice day’s cycling and a respectable distance covered. Tomorrow will be longer.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.