Day 51/54. Friday. July 15

  Naryn to Canyon Bush Camp 33.

Distance:  140 km

Cumulative Distance: 5741 km

Time: 8 hrs 38 min

Speed:  16.2 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 5610

Cumulative Climb: 121,146  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 110 bpm..........approx

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 5740 ft.

Wonderful days cycling but things were looking bleak last evening.

At 6 pm yesterday evening the weather forecasted was for rain this morning and clearing in afternoon. But the rain came early between 7pm and midnight and so, clear warm day all day today.

Lying in the tent from 6.30 and in bed by 8 with rain pattering down on the tent it's a very lonely claustrophobic place - hoping a strong wind won't make matters worse; trying to keep things from touching the sides etc. I finally got to sound sleep around 10. It was a sodden tent that I packed away this morning and didn't enclose it inside my bag but strapped to the side.

For the first 80 km today we left town and followed Naryn River which showed all the results of yesterday's thunder rain. On my left for those 80 km were clay cliffs, sometimes looking attractive under the morning sun but also showing the effects of water erosion over the years. This was a long straight road, reminiscent of Kazakhstan in many ways.

To make matters worse, I knew this was the last of the pavement for four days. Often enough I just hopped onto the gravel shoulder for a bit of comfort.

Above, you’ll notice the approx Average Heart Beat. My Garmin has packed in completely now. For the last few weeks the altimeter in it (for feet climbed, gradient and altitude) was not operating and I depended on others to supply such information. Possibly the heavy rain as I arrived in camp yesterday got into the card and fried the device. So now I fall back onto my back-up Crivit that works off the front wheel supplying distance, average speed and cycling time.

Just 5 km outside Naryn a 100 metre climb served as a warm-up, just one switch-back. After that just long straight stretches till lunch time at 80 km.

At 80 km just after a village the pavement ended and the gravel started. A number of police on the streets in that village and I found out later that the prime minister was due to pass that way later on. Also heard that Angela Merkel had been in Kyrgyzstan yesterday.

From lunch time (till Sunday evening) it's gravel all the way. Gravel means checking your line of travel all the time and clouds of dust from cars. 20 km of this till the real work of the day started.

At 100 km with four and a half hours cycling done I faced into a 25 km climb to an un-named pass. A couple of km of gradual ascent and then the switch-backs started, must have been over 25 of them.

Looking up ahead didn't give any indication of what lay ahead. It was only when I got up near the top and looked back down that the picture became clear. What appears in the photos is just a sample. On some of those turns I dismounted and walked a few hundred metres. An opportunity to admire the beautiful view beneath me. Quite a few of the cyclists didn't cycle the second half of the day at all and packed it in at lunch. This section of the road (and the first 65 km of tomorrow's route) is a summer-only road; only open to traffic from May to September. 

Felt elated to eventually arrive at the summit -2800 metres (9240 feet) and  had completed the challenge. Being an un-named pass on the maps I felt entitled to name it and wrote its new name in stone - Oisin Pass. It's still there on the ground for all to see.

Now for the 15 km gravel descent to camp. The mountains ahead and sky didn't look inviting and possibly rain would be my lot on arrival in camp again. Didn't happen.

I put on the jacket as descents normally are cooler. Not here. Being on gravel the descent was as cagey as the ascent - constantly picking lines and avoiding stray rocks and piles of gravel. Around all the switch-backs down I was just at about 12 km/hr. So off came the coat. I stopped a few times to take a shot of the view ahead or to look back. Beautiful. 

Tonight we are camping in a canyon with a little stream - great for a refreshing wash after a dusty day. No rain tonight so a good chance of a long uninterrupted sleep. Will need it with big climbs for the next two days.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.

Day 50. Thursday. July 14.

   Kochkor to Naryn Bush Camp 32.

Distance:  120 km

Cumulative Distance: 5601 km

Time: 6 hrs 40 min

Speed:  18.2 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 4950

Cumulative Climb: 115,536  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 6897 ft.

Two factors added to the enjoyment of today's cycle - perfect road surface and lovely scenery.

Chilly as we set out this morning from Kochkor and heading south for the mountains. I cycled solo again for the duration and enjoyed every minute of it. The streets out of Kochkor were rough enough but by 6 km I was back on the Chinese road. The Chinese know how to build a road and build it right.

There was just 20 km of it still under construction. A few bridges to be built, some grading being done, sometimes just one lane complete. Rather than put up signs saying “Keep off this section", they just place light boulders all along the surface. Easy to navigate around those on a bike. There was one 10 km stretch which was still just loose gravel and each truck approaching or passing threw up clouds of dust.

It's a Chinese construction firm that won the contract and looks like  Saudi engineers. The completed road will join the capital, Bishkek in the extreme north through Naryn to the Chinese border in the south. The present 90 km stretch being done is a three year contract with a specific completion date 16 Dec, 2016.

The two items of conversation this evening in camp are the big climb and the scenery. One big monster climb today to the Dolon Pass at 3025 metres (just short of 10,000 feet). It consisted of two steps, a 10 km climb through a gorge beside a roaring torrent coming against us. Photos really don't convey gradient (up or down) but the river gives an indication. The road weaved its way beneath high crags as it rose.

The second 10 km step was in more open space and I could see the task ahead and indeed also the road below that I had just climbed. Along both these parts I passed a number of other riders; even saw one of the stronger ones dismounting and walking.

The photo of the final 2 km part looks a lot less daunting than what I actually saw. Trucks laboured going up but also trucks also just crawled down.

Finally the real top appeared (nothing special to mark it) and I knew I’d  conquered the beast. But still at 55 km, less than half the day’s distance completed.

Over the top and the perfect surface continued for another 5 km through beautiful mountain landscape. Then the construction occupied the next 10 km. Occasionally a brand new stretch of fresh tarmac appeared but might last just a couple of hundred metres. Down through the gorge it turned quite chilly and I had to put the jacket on again. Dust and fumes annoyed but not as much as motorists who still tore along passing and overtaking totally disregarding the cyclist.

And the scenery all along was beautiful - steep gorges and then occasional large patches of green with a few houses or yurts.

For the final 40 km of the day I cycled along through meadows typical of Kyrgyzstan with the smell of new mown hay and families busy bringing in those bales. So pleasant and so colourful beneath the snowy peaks.

I stopped for an ice-cream and a local man started up an animated conversation. Hadn't a clue what he was saying but tried to latch on to any bit of a word I caught. I heard ’stan’ so I told him of the stands we’d come through and the ones to come (for the others). Again I heard something like ’origin’ and told him of where we started and route so far. He seemed to be happy and stood for a photo. So many men, young and old wear these types of hat. I tried to get one but Kyrgyz men must have smaller heads.

Finally, the western end of Naryn appeared through a cleft in a red wall around 2 pm and mission almost accomplished. Another 3 km to go and the heavy clouds ahead began to shed their load. Got into the campsite (very uneven surface) and rushed to get the tent up before the serious rain fell. Just about succeeded with all luggage safely inside and then rushed to the kitchen covered area as a right thunder-storm struck. Still light rain this evening as I write this.

Note:  For the next 3 days we will be in very remote locations and unlikely that blogs will be uploaded. But they’ll go up as soon as I reach Jalal Abad on Sunday.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy. 

Day 49. Wednesday. July 13.

 Tong to Kochkor Bush Camp 31.

Distance:  127 km

Cumulative Distance: 5481 km

Time: 6 hrs 15 min

Speed:  20.1 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 3399

Cumulative Climb: 110,586  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 6072 ft.

A day not in the same scenic league as yesterday. Also quite dull at the start and only got sunny as I pulled into camp.

Life on the beach was pleasant yesterday afternoon and evening. But, being a holiday spot the music only started as we tucked in for the nights sleep. The music from the eastern end was more intrusive but only lasted from 9 till shortly after 11. The western end also started at 9 and although we only got the dull vibrations of the base, it continued till 4.30 am just as the alarm went off. In spite of everything got a great nights sleep.

At breakfast most sat with their porridge facing out to the rising sun. A lovely feeling.

From camp it was a steady pull for 20 km and then a stiff climb to the 26 km mark. This is awkward before you have a chance to warm up.

Generally the morning was dull but the sun shone through the clouds to light up just part of a hillside. Still, threatening clouds were far off in the direction we were heading.

This evening in camp around 5 pm we had plenty of loud thunder overhead and a short spell of rain, but now at 7 pm all is clear again and fresh. But, we’re told of a 50% chance of rain tomorrow.

When I arrived at the top of that first climb (Ron was just ahead) I saw what I presumed was a police checkpoint but in fact they were just escorting and providing security for a convoy (8 trucks) of cyanide for the Kumtor gold mine near the China border. That mine is operated by a Canadian company and is the eight largest goldmine in the world and is responsible for 12% of the GDP of Kyrgyzstan. Oddly enough it's located in eternal snow at 4300 metres (14,200 feet) above sea level.

Today was not as scenic as yesterday but the snow peaks peered through at times. From the time we left camp we were drifting away from the lake and didn't see the surface till we reached the western end after 50 km. Now the snowy peaks across the way seemed closer.

The route passed through wilderness with no cultivation but plenty of flowers. 

After lunch (75km) the route switched south hitting for the hills on a shortcut. Actually the road surface here was far better than on the main road. All pavement today but it varied from downright bone shaking to smooth new surface. It's so frustrating being rattled for miles and miles and then having to jump to the gravel shoulder when motorists demand their space.

For the last 14 km into Kochkor (today's destination) life was so pleasant. It was a brand new road built by a Chinese crew. It leads to the border crossing with China at Torugart . The first two trucks bearing steel fabrications were Chinese from the writing on the front.

At 100 km passed the mighty Ortotoko reservoir on my right, for water supply,not for hydro-electric. It took me a good 10 km to get to the end of it.

The town of Kochkor (pop 14,000) final appeared and was busy especially in the centre with a market on both sides of the street. I dropped into a community tourism shop in the centre, an outlet for local artisans dealing especially with felt rugs and decorative pieces. These felt products (from sheeps wool) are all handmade and bear traditional motifs.

Campsite tonight isn't as exotic as last evening but it's within walking distance of town and there is internet access.

Time to hit the hay for the night and be ready for whatever tomorrow brings.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.