Kergen to Karakol (Kyrgyzstan)
Distance: 136 km
Cumulative Distance: 5225 km
Time: 6 hrs 36 min
Speed: 20.9 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 2640
Cumulative Climb: 105,372 ft
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 108 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.
Altitude tonight: 4570 ft.
Late rising this morning as the Border (just 28 km up the road) doesn't open till 8am. Directly as the alarm went off at 5 drops started to fall on the tent. Why didn't we get up earlier? But it came to nothing much; the fly sheet is damp and will need a drying tomorrow.
By 6.15 almost all were on the road through Main St,Kegen and on to Karlara with it's mosque shining in the morning glow. People were busy bringing cows and sheep and horses out to the meadows (commonage) just outside this village at the butt of the mountains. At this early stage one knew scenery would be memorable from today.
After just 16 km the pavement ended and stayed with us for the next 50 kms. In places there were pieces of pavement as it must have been tarred at some stage. Cars coming against us threw up a cloud of dust and sometimes flying pebbles.
At one point along here, I spotted Erwin (Ger) in among the grass. He had spotted a wonderful specimen of edelweiss, something becoming rarer and rarer in the Alps.
I arrived at the border just before 8. The whole process took just an hour, relatively fast. The Kazakhstan side let us through three by three. This is a little used border crossing and only open during the summer months. I’m sure we were a novelty for them. The officers at both sides were more light-hearted than the typical passport scrutinisers. The one who asked me to open my backpack asked what was the flat item wrapped in a plastic cover. My iPad, says I. Oh, says he, a present for me? with a twinkle. He also commented favourably on my phone, not the latest in phone technology. On the Kyrgyzstan side, after getting my passport stamped, the officer giving me the final approval to pass the barrier (as he fingered through the pages of the passport) smilingly gave the thumbs down to China, Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan for demanding passports but proudly gave the thumbs up to Kyrgyzstan for not requiring a visa. Pass on, says he.
This is the fifth country on this expedition. Immediately I was face to face with the mountains and meadows and flowers. When the road had a smooth gravel patch I could look around. No vats expanses of steppe. Mountains on both sides with yurts, animals and streams. Just beautiful. And the blue sky with those fluffy clouds capped it all. After the 40 km mark it was generally downhill to 104 km.
Eventually at 66 km I was on to silky smooth Tarmac only recently laid. Such a difference. And some of my fans were out to cheer me on...Allez Tipp. Allez.
Lunch was on this beautiful stretch and Jacob (staff) was giving the new drone a try-out. Sent it off after Mike and William as they pulled off from lunch.
Once we crossed the border I was heading west for a change, heading for Lake Issyk Kol which is 170 km long and 70 km across. We’ll cycle by it for the next few days.
The river valley we following down to the lake was well tilled, in large sections on the left and in vegetable patches by the houses on the right. Plenty of houses and farmyards scattered along this road (all on the mountain side only) and it was more like Eastern Europe than Kazakhstan. Plenty of variety as I cycled along.
Potatoes all in blossom and being sprayed, hay being baled and drawn in. In a few places the hay was being cut by scythe and put into pikes.
Being Munster Final day, I especially felt at home at 104 km on entering this town, Typ...that third letter is a P. And the colours suited. Hope they do the business in the Gaelic Grounds. Pity that the local mosque was all out in the Waterford blue and white.
Just outside Typ, a car pulled in beside me as I cycled along and continued with me for almost 500 metres. They were 4 mountaineers from Belgium and had spotted me back in town. All enquiries about the cycle and ended up offering me a few jelly sweets for a threat. Nice.
Those last 32 km to destination were the longest of the day. Between life departure and border delay, we were cycling into the hottest part of the day.
Just outside Typ on a high point, Karakol appeared in the distance but deceptively close. There were many drops and rises in between and impatient motorists and very bumpy surface. At times I moved onto the gravel shoulder - smoother and free from the honking of motorists.
Finally arrived in Karakol, a major base for exploring some of Central Asia’s best skiing and alpine treks. Even the streets were bumpy right down to the hotel, better appointed than previous ones but location could be better. A good 20 minute walk from the centre also.
Did go up there to arrange currency (1 euro = 73 som) and to get a SIM card (30 days, Unlimited use for 12 euro). And had a glorious plate of lagman to satisfy the appetite.
So, a new country and it's looking promising from a scenery point of view. But need to rest up a lot as we prepare for a 7 day stint to Osh.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.






























Seems like a beautiful country with lots of colourful vegetation. I have never seen edelweiss in reality - looks exotic. Riding into Typ was a good omen - Tipp demolished the Deise today.
ReplyDeleteEddie