Day 50. Thursday. July 14.

   Kochkor to Naryn Bush Camp 32.

Distance:  120 km

Cumulative Distance: 5601 km

Time: 6 hrs 40 min

Speed:  18.2 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 4950

Cumulative Climb: 115,536  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 6897 ft.

Two factors added to the enjoyment of today's cycle - perfect road surface and lovely scenery.

Chilly as we set out this morning from Kochkor and heading south for the mountains. I cycled solo again for the duration and enjoyed every minute of it. The streets out of Kochkor were rough enough but by 6 km I was back on the Chinese road. The Chinese know how to build a road and build it right.

There was just 20 km of it still under construction. A few bridges to be built, some grading being done, sometimes just one lane complete. Rather than put up signs saying “Keep off this section", they just place light boulders all along the surface. Easy to navigate around those on a bike. There was one 10 km stretch which was still just loose gravel and each truck approaching or passing threw up clouds of dust.

It's a Chinese construction firm that won the contract and looks like  Saudi engineers. The completed road will join the capital, Bishkek in the extreme north through Naryn to the Chinese border in the south. The present 90 km stretch being done is a three year contract with a specific completion date 16 Dec, 2016.

The two items of conversation this evening in camp are the big climb and the scenery. One big monster climb today to the Dolon Pass at 3025 metres (just short of 10,000 feet). It consisted of two steps, a 10 km climb through a gorge beside a roaring torrent coming against us. Photos really don't convey gradient (up or down) but the river gives an indication. The road weaved its way beneath high crags as it rose.

The second 10 km step was in more open space and I could see the task ahead and indeed also the road below that I had just climbed. Along both these parts I passed a number of other riders; even saw one of the stronger ones dismounting and walking.

The photo of the final 2 km part looks a lot less daunting than what I actually saw. Trucks laboured going up but also trucks also just crawled down.

Finally the real top appeared (nothing special to mark it) and I knew I’d  conquered the beast. But still at 55 km, less than half the day’s distance completed.

Over the top and the perfect surface continued for another 5 km through beautiful mountain landscape. Then the construction occupied the next 10 km. Occasionally a brand new stretch of fresh tarmac appeared but might last just a couple of hundred metres. Down through the gorge it turned quite chilly and I had to put the jacket on again. Dust and fumes annoyed but not as much as motorists who still tore along passing and overtaking totally disregarding the cyclist.

And the scenery all along was beautiful - steep gorges and then occasional large patches of green with a few houses or yurts.

For the final 40 km of the day I cycled along through meadows typical of Kyrgyzstan with the smell of new mown hay and families busy bringing in those bales. So pleasant and so colourful beneath the snowy peaks.

I stopped for an ice-cream and a local man started up an animated conversation. Hadn't a clue what he was saying but tried to latch on to any bit of a word I caught. I heard ’stan’ so I told him of the stands we’d come through and the ones to come (for the others). Again I heard something like ’origin’ and told him of where we started and route so far. He seemed to be happy and stood for a photo. So many men, young and old wear these types of hat. I tried to get one but Kyrgyz men must have smaller heads.

Finally, the western end of Naryn appeared through a cleft in a red wall around 2 pm and mission almost accomplished. Another 3 km to go and the heavy clouds ahead began to shed their load. Got into the campsite (very uneven surface) and rushed to get the tent up before the serious rain fell. Just about succeeded with all luggage safely inside and then rushed to the kitchen covered area as a right thunder-storm struck. Still light rain this evening as I write this.

Note:  For the next 3 days we will be in very remote locations and unlikely that blogs will be uploaded. But they’ll go up as soon as I reach Jalal Abad on Sunday.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.