Day 49. Wednesday. July 13.

 Tong to Kochkor Bush Camp 31.

Distance:  127 km

Cumulative Distance: 5481 km

Time: 6 hrs 15 min

Speed:  20.1 km/hr

Feet Climbed today: 3399

Cumulative Climb: 110,586  ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 107 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 6072 ft.

A day not in the same scenic league as yesterday. Also quite dull at the start and only got sunny as I pulled into camp.

Life on the beach was pleasant yesterday afternoon and evening. But, being a holiday spot the music only started as we tucked in for the nights sleep. The music from the eastern end was more intrusive but only lasted from 9 till shortly after 11. The western end also started at 9 and although we only got the dull vibrations of the base, it continued till 4.30 am just as the alarm went off. In spite of everything got a great nights sleep.

At breakfast most sat with their porridge facing out to the rising sun. A lovely feeling.

From camp it was a steady pull for 20 km and then a stiff climb to the 26 km mark. This is awkward before you have a chance to warm up.

Generally the morning was dull but the sun shone through the clouds to light up just part of a hillside. Still, threatening clouds were far off in the direction we were heading.

This evening in camp around 5 pm we had plenty of loud thunder overhead and a short spell of rain, but now at 7 pm all is clear again and fresh. But, we’re told of a 50% chance of rain tomorrow.

When I arrived at the top of that first climb (Ron was just ahead) I saw what I presumed was a police checkpoint but in fact they were just escorting and providing security for a convoy (8 trucks) of cyanide for the Kumtor gold mine near the China border. That mine is operated by a Canadian company and is the eight largest goldmine in the world and is responsible for 12% of the GDP of Kyrgyzstan. Oddly enough it's located in eternal snow at 4300 metres (14,200 feet) above sea level.

Today was not as scenic as yesterday but the snow peaks peered through at times. From the time we left camp we were drifting away from the lake and didn't see the surface till we reached the western end after 50 km. Now the snowy peaks across the way seemed closer.

The route passed through wilderness with no cultivation but plenty of flowers. 

After lunch (75km) the route switched south hitting for the hills on a shortcut. Actually the road surface here was far better than on the main road. All pavement today but it varied from downright bone shaking to smooth new surface. It's so frustrating being rattled for miles and miles and then having to jump to the gravel shoulder when motorists demand their space.

For the last 14 km into Kochkor (today's destination) life was so pleasant. It was a brand new road built by a Chinese crew. It leads to the border crossing with China at Torugart . The first two trucks bearing steel fabrications were Chinese from the writing on the front.

At 100 km passed the mighty Ortotoko reservoir on my right, for water supply,not for hydro-electric. It took me a good 10 km to get to the end of it.

The town of Kochkor (pop 14,000) final appeared and was busy especially in the centre with a market on both sides of the street. I dropped into a community tourism shop in the centre, an outlet for local artisans dealing especially with felt rugs and decorative pieces. These felt products (from sheeps wool) are all handmade and bear traditional motifs.

Campsite tonight isn't as exotic as last evening but it's within walking distance of town and there is internet access.

Time to hit the hay for the night and be ready for whatever tomorrow brings.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.