Smolenskoe to Petropavlovskoe Bush Camp 18.
Distance: 102 km
Cumulative Distance: 3220 km
Time: 4 hrs 34 min
Speed: 22.3 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 604
Cumulative Climb: 67,798 ft
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 101 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.
Altitude tonight: 715 ft
Today, Midsummer Day and also Day 32 and thus I expected it to be special. On the USA trip, I encountered Tipperary, Missouri and Ted Stanford and his folks on Day 32, my auspicious number. However nothing spectacular occurred except that I arrived safely at today's destination. And that's a worthwhile achievement in itself.
Alarm sounded at 4.30 am and the mosquitos had set their alarms at the same time. I did get a few bites yesterday evening but not as bad as on our first Russia night in Koch Agach.Some cyclists hit the road without eating just to escape the scourge. I ate mine quickly and told Mike and Frieder that I was off too. We met a few times during the day but I generally cycled solo.
Being out on the road at 5.30, the rising sun cast along shadow as the first few kms headed south west. At Smolenskoe we turned west off the busy road and we’ll head south-west for the next two days to circumvent a range of mountains and then head due south to enter Kazakhstan.
Road surface today was acceptable all along. Traffic didn't present any anxious moments, unlike yesterday. I’m sticking with the 35 mm tyres as protection against the odd rough bit of surface. I used 28 mm in China on pavement but I reckon 35’s will lessen the chances of picking up pinch flats without compromising on performance.
For the first 40 km today it was vast areas of crops on both sides as yesterday. We had cleaner fields of young corn but also bearded wheat (if I’m not mistaken), beards as with barley but smooth beards.
After that 40 km mark all reverted to grass, sometimes open steppe, for a few kilometres wet swampy places with bulrushes, and also grass being grown for silage and hay. Came across one set of empty silage pits that seemed to have been constructed in a hurry; the reinforcing mesh must only have been millimetres from the surface.
Another pit in a healthier state was being swept to receive after the first pit was full. There were a number of stockyards to be seen and cows being returned to pasture after morning milking.
On today's s cycle I attempted to concentrate on prioritising my right leg in response to Jordan’s observation last Sunday. The route was very flat but on any bit of a rise I pushed on the right. It might even up the wear on the bottom bracket also for the remainder. Most of us are disappointed that today's distance is so short...103 km. Most were in before noon and not much to do camped out ’in the middle of nowhere’. Could easily have done another 40 or 50 km both yesterday and today and shorten our two last days in Russia (one of them involving another border crossing........perish the thought!)
Lunch was scheduled for 65 km. At this point I was cycling alone and still no lunch van visible at 66 or 67 or 68. Till now lunch invariably occurs before the scheduled distance. Was a little concerned that I’d missed a turn. Checked my written directions, checked the photo I took of the Route Board last night. All was in order, but still I worried. Was on the point of turning back to the last flagging tape when I spotted Mike and Frieder coming along. Relief. I don't mind being lost but don't like being lost alone. The red lunch van appeared up ahead at 70 km and all was forgotten. A few sandwiches and a bit of fruit works wonders!
For a stretch after lunch a number of scattered one-off houses appeared, each with chickens or geese in the yard. This was in the non-crop area. Houses here (especially roofs) tend to be colourful as in Mongolian villages.
As yesterday, especially in the early stages, long stretches of road with a line of planted trees and fencing and cropping behind reminded me so much of the Olympic Highway, during my Australian trip, from Wagga to Cowra to Bathurst. Picture the birch trees as gum trees and add in a bounding kangaroo and the similarity was there.
Near the end a great expanse of meadow on the left with round bales from last year’s crop still there. Still very fresh inside in spite of the harsh wet winters here.
Grain is at the centre of the economy here and even features on their flag, a yellow head of grain on a blue background.
When I heard we were camping near Petro-pavlov-skoe, I expected dogs to feature and respond to cyclists in some manner. Just a few small ones appeared. Most of the lads attempt to cycle away faster which only adds to the dog’s interest in the rotating feet and wheels. I hop off, put the bike between us and bark/shout back and moving towards them at the same time. It works and they back off. (Actually Petropavloskoe has nothing to do with Pavlov, it's Peter and Paul town.)
Our campsite is just 5 km beyond the town near the road. No mosquitos around (yet) but a cool fresh breeze might keep them away entirely.
An easy day, too easy. The hours since arriving at camp have been more draining than those spent on the road.
Back to a bit of climbing tomorrow.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.
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