Central Beijing. Fri May 13.

Well, this morning I didn't miss breakfast and it was worth coming down for also. Tasty and met up with Sandy, one of the Canadian cyclists.

During the night I had been wavering between cycling into the centre and taking the underground. We are about 18 km from Tiananmen Square. I eventually decided to take the bike. It was a clear bright morning but with fumes along the roadway so I donned my mask to spare the lungs. Actually, it didn't feel a hindrance at all.

I had my route made out on Google Maps and a summary clipped to my brake cables for quick referral. All went well till I took a turn a bit before time and from then on I just used the map (the fact that all streets are in a square grid was a big help).

In due course I cycled down by the western wall of the Forbidden City and swung left on the northern side of Dongcheng (street) running between Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. At a security check I was stopped by a policeman and he indicated that I’d have to go back to the last junction and cross over to the other side. It was all part of their circulation.

I did so and had a great view of both Tiananmen Square and the Gate of Heavenly Peace. After passing I mounted the footpath and went to join the crowd queueing to go into the square. Another policeman indicated that I couldn't go in here with the bike.

I cycled on for another 0.7 km past a military academy and then swung left down a leafy Zhangyi Lu through the Foreign Legation Quarter. Another few lefts and rights and I exited past a guarded barrier. Not a word said.

Crossed over the street and joined the crowds of tourists at this south east corner (I’ll refer to it as the Rosslare corner). The Forbidden City seemed miles away. Remember that this square is the largest public square in the world (440,000 sq metres) almost 400m by 1 km. It was constructed only in 50's by Mao to reflect the enormity of the China Communist Party. I had read in a guide that cycling and even walking a bike was not allowed in the square. But, with the scant regard paid to things like pedestrian crossings and green/red lights I thought that this was just an item of theory.

I strolled across the lower less crowded part of the square and took plenty of photos of the crowds, of the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall with military guard outside, of the Monument to the People's Heroes and of the colourful displays. Plenty of uniformed security around (and, I presume, as many plain clothes ones). No one said anything to me.

I wandered over to the ’Limerick’ side of the square and then up by the colourful trees to the ’Donegal’ corner. At this stage I had been wandering about for 30 mins or more and taken as many photos, in many cases of security and military personnel.

I neared the top and had just taken a photo of the imposing image of Mao on the Gate of Heavenly Peace (across the road) when I spotted a policeman walking very purposefully towards me with a not-happy look on his face. He gazed at me sternly, then at the bike and then scanned my written directions on the brake cables. I knew he wasn't happy about something. The words he spoke meant nothing to me; then he indicated to me to hold my ground and spoke into his inter-com. Quickly two more police approached from the police van nearby. The more senior one, with a little English indicated that the bike wasn't allowed in the Square. He asked how I had come in; I pointed back to the far-away ’Rosslare’ gate. Emphatically, by words and movement of hands he instructed  me to “sneak back out the way I’d snuk in”. I apologised,  utilising the Barcelona protocol, and then sheepishly began to make my way to the Rosslare exit. Every police officer and military man I now passed beckoned me to move on as I wasn't allowed here with a bike. I presume messages of ’walking cyclist on the loose’ was being relayed on the security network.

Took another few photos of the National Museum of China and then one officer indicated that I’d be quicker exiting across by the nearby ’Dun Laoighre’ gate. I joined the pedestrians waiting for the traffic to halt. It did, but the lollipop-lady at the crossing wagged her finger saying “No, No, no exit with bike”. But after emphasising to her that I had been told to get out of the square she let up, shook her head as if to say “Oh, all right, ceart go leor, go on, go on, go on.”.

Very nearly created an international incident. And I with my green, white and orange Abbey India shirt on with IRELAND printed across the chest. I didn't fancy being taken in by the police; the courts here have a 99% conviction rate and I wouldn't like it impose the expense on relatives to come out and visit me! But, I’d reckon that some official at the ’Rosslare’ gate got his knuckles rapped last night. Should get an award for highlighting a glitch in their security system!!

Once outside the square I sat down for a bite to eat to ease the traumatic shock. It was then that I noticed the long queues at the security entrance down at this south-eastern Rosslare gate.

Refreshed, I made my way back by the Forbidden City (it covers an area three times the size of Tiananmen Square).

A few more streets brought me to the twin towers, the colourful Drum Tower and the plainer Bell Tower. These were the time-indicators (the Big Ben) for Beijing till the early part of the 20th century (1929). There is still a smaller scale Drum ceremony on the half-hour and crowds as I passed the way. 

Next I detoured down some of the Hutongs (the back-lanes and alleys) of Beijing where the pulse of everyday life continues at the heart of the city. There had been thousands of these but many were demolished to make space for office blocks and large squares. They reminded me of some of the lanes in Calcutta and Shillong.

Within another 30 minutes or so I came to the site of the 2008 Summer Olympics between the 4th and 5th Ring Roads.

There in front of me were the Birds Nest and the Water Cube and other sporting arenas specially constructed for the occasion. Nearby were the Ubique IBM building and the suitably designed Digital Beijing Building. The grounds were open to the public but not to bikes. I wouldn't push my luck this time".

As I swung left and heading back west to the hotel I passed by what must have been the Athletes’ Village for the Games.

By the time I arrived back (3pm) I had covered about 40 km. It had been interesting and I was glad I had opted for the bike challenge for the day.

It's an easy city to cycle in, very flat, plenty of cycle lanes although cars do encroach and park there. Traffic on cycle lanes goes both ways, sometimes passing on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes plenty of pedestrians also.

So, it was an interesting day in an interesting city.

Now, preparations for the long cycle start in the morning.

Thank God for a lovely day.