Day 11 of 54. May 27

Bush Camp 3 to Ulaanbaatar.

Distance:  132 km

Cumulative Distance: 1241 km

Time: 6 hrs 46 min

Speed:  19.3 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  2861

Cumulative Climb: 26,346 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 101 bpm

Punctures: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 4030 ft

Another tough day, but not in the same league as yesterday. When I arrived in camp yesterday evening (in a walled compound behind a country restaurant) I was exhausted and I just refused to think about today's route or make a decision. It's amazing what a night’s sleep and relaxation does. Sleep......I didn't get a lot thanks to the dog tethered just nearby. When I set up the tent in that spot at 5.30 pm he looked very calm and quiet. Later, after I went to bed (9pm), I realised that he relaxes during the day and only comes to life after nightfall. Two other dogs in the compound didn't help. They continued well after midnight, and had another barking conversation around 2.30. I kept my patience and still felt relaxed when the alarm sounded at 4.45.

All was calm outside and not as cold as the previous morning. The usual group of us set out on the long road for Ulaanbaatar. We had extra layers on but we shed those as the day wore on.

Today we started to emerge from the Gobi Desert. Patches of green appeared on both sides  and ore livestock evident.

It was such a pleasure to ride in calm conditions especially after the last few days. We moved along, utilising the same rotation at 27 km/hrs on level ground. All the while we hoped the winds wouldn't pick up till we had a good distance covered. The first inkling of a sidewind struck us exactly 1 km before lunch stop (at 83 km). We were just over halfway. 

Mongolians are fond of horses and proud of their horse skills. Repeatedly we observed horses being rounded up and driven across the ever increasing green steppe. Fond they are, but we came on an unpleasant sight in a hollow right by the side of the road.

Got a great wave from two intrepid cycle tourists travelling in the opposite direction. Haven't seen too many of them. Locals don't see to many of them either. In one petrol station the attendants were intrigued by the bikes and the bike computers on them.

At lunch we just had to have a shot of our international group.. (left to right) Mike Archer (NZ), Mike Hennessy (Canada), Joan O Donohue (S Carolina), Frieder Wolfart (Switzerland) and self. We worked well through all that the elements and the landscape threw at us.

Just after lunch (at 87 km) we faced into the major climb of the dayq, 6 km of gradient 3% with a sidewind or headwind. After the first crest there were more ups and downs right to the outskirts of Ullanbaatar. We regrouped on the tops of the group had been disconnected. 

On the tops of these passes were ovoos and as tradition demands I circled it three times, threw a stone onto the pile and made a wish “Please make this wind stop”. There were crutches and discarded walking sticks about so the belief is strong.

Near one of these ovoos was a large cemetery on a hillside. Till the early 20th century Mongolians practiced sky-burial, leaving the corpse out to the elements at sacred high spots and letting nature take its way and ensuring reincarnation of the spirit. When the Russians came they forbad this practice and insisted on burial although now cremation is becoming more popular.

As we move onto steppe landscape herding is becoming more noticeable. At one stage a horseman drove a large herd of sheep and goats down a hill and across the road just in front of Mike. To see a Mongolian in full flight on a horse is really to see poetry in motion.

Another herder passed near us with a well qualified King Puck in his care.

Looking out over this new slightly greener landscape is refreshing and a change from the Gobi. We spotted water for the first time in days.

Coming within 25 km of Ulaanbaatar the roads got very busy both ways. Heavy traffic, no hard shoulder, broken surface between the concrete slabs and a strong sidewind made progress dangerous. Trucks, cars and buses just couldn't pull out. At times we were forced off the road over the sharp drop onto the gravel verge. At this stage Jordan, of the tour staff who cycled with us called a halt and declared the situation too perilous to proceed. He called the truck to ferry us the remaining kilometres to the hotel.

Traffic in Ulaanbaatar was hectic barely moving but eventually we reached base and after two nights camping wild, the shower was the greatest luxury.

And at dinner we did relax with a good bottle of Mongolian beer. We reckon we deserved it after conquering the Gobi.

Now for a Rest Day to reorganise and recover before hitting the trail again on Sunday morning for more adventure.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.