Day 12. Sunday, May 29

  Ullanbaatar to Sage Bush Camp 4 ( Bayankhangai)

Distance:  112 km

Cumulative Distance: 1353 km

Time: 5 hrs 25 min

Speed:  20.6 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  1701

Cumulative Climb: 28,047 ft 

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 101 bpm

Punctures so far: 2.     

Altitude tonight: 3590 ft

Back on the road again. Alarm off at 5.10 this morning and 0 deg outside but it was dry and relatively calm.

After Riders Meeting a good wholesome breakfast and introduction of the 4 new riders, Reece and Jacqueline from Australia, Per (another) from Sweden and Joost from the Netherlands.

The streets of Ullanbaatar on this Sunday morning were quiet as we turned west in the centre and headed out with the sun at our back. Passed another Irish Pub on the way out; I'm sure it also was just Irish in name.

It took 20 km to clear town but the road was good and safe; pity that we didn't have the same type of road when entering the city on Friday.

Out by the edge of town heavy machinery (earth-movers and crushers) lined yards on either side, for mining major and small time.

The wide thoroughfare continued for 34 km with little or no climb. Such a pleasure to ride with no danger worries, no wind and temperatures gradually rising.

As we entered the countryside proper hills appeared on both sides, enclosures with a ger and outhouses and chalets with a Swiss flavour. The road itself rose and dropped but nothing too severe.

We did spot a definite nomadic ger out on our left with the owner herding his animals on the open steppe. This is looking like the typical Mongolia we imagined. As days go by we'll go deeper and deeper into the less frequented areas.

Again, as last Friday, a horseman just drove his herd across the road in front of us to avail of better grazing. The number of goats being raised in Mongolia has increased since 1991 with democracy and the free market. Till then goats comprised 30% of the national herd; now it stands at 45%. Herders increased numbers to avail of the demand for cashmere. But the market flooded and prices dropped (sound familiar!), but also the grazing goat is destructive of the sparse grazing. The eat the grass down to the very roots leaving little for regeneration. This and decreasing rainfall are leading to the gradual desertification of larger and larger areas. It's predicted that 75% of Mongolia will be desert by 2050 (presently 56%). Probably learn more about goats as we ride deeper into the countryside.

Almost all of today's ride was on paved road just the last 2 km on gravel. That's a taster for the next two days - gravel and dirt (clay). Those wider tyres should help.

We could see villages off our road accessible only by dirt track. A cloud of dust indicated some vehicle en route. That's us tomorrow!

There's very little cultivation in Mongolia but today we saw vast areas under grain cultivated in strips. In one we scratched to locate some seeds but failed, but did spot an odd combine harvester in a few enclosures.

Lunch was at 70 km today in a grassy area near some of that cultivation. The natural grass is sparse naturally enough with such a short growing season. A luxury (by car) tour group dropped into our lunch location with one of the party in traditional gear.

Just outside the last village we passed through, some of the local lads joined in the fun with the strangers. And some of them dropped out to the camp just before dinner.

Camp tonight (Sage Camp) is located just around the corner from Bayankhangai village in an area of tiny sage plants. It's a beautiful location and we can enjoy it - no rain, no strong wind and we arrived in at 2pm with nothing on the menu till Riders Meeting at 6.

I had a stroll up to a neighbouring hill to savour the view. Tracks and trails going in all directions over the plains.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.