Day 5. Friday May 20.

 Xianghraunqi to Sonid Youqi (China)

Distance:  124 km

Cumulative Distance: 552 km

Time: 6 hrs 6 min

Speed:  20 km/hr

Feet Climbed:  1520

Cumulative Climb: 9907 ft

AHR (Average Heart Rate) 123 bpm

Punctures: 0

Altitude tonight: 3647

Bit of a change today. It had to come sooner or later. We set out with a fresh assisting tailwind on trek in a northwestern direction. But at the 18 km mark within a few minutes the wind had swung around and blew directly up our noses. That put a stop to our gallop. Starting out it was easy to cruise along on level ground at 32 km/hr. When the wind switched it was effort to reach 22 even on a small decline. After lunch I thought things eased off a bit but still a tough headwind.

To cope with this some formed into groups and rotated the front position each km. I joined in with one from 52 to 58 km; for the rest of the time I rode solo and quite enjoyed the freedom to stop and to dictate my own pace. I dropped into one nascent grouping for a period but the pace was erratic and sole preoccupation was watching that wheel in front.

These days will come again. Lucky that we have escaped to this point. The prevailing wind in Mongolia comes from the north-west, and that’s where we're heading.

An item from last evening: after our dinner we came out onto Bulag Gardens, a large central Plaza in Xianghuanqi dominated by a prominent sculpture of the Mongolian horse. Beneath a group of ladies were going through what I refer to as tai-chi. It lasted a long time with different moves to different pieces of music, but all were in harmony. Young kids and other adults were about and continued to take photos of us as if we had celebrity status. Most likely, not many westerners come this way. I decided to stand in with them as we took photos of them taking photos of us.

Generally, there was a pleasant warm summer atmosphere in the plaza with its many other activities. As we left the unusual street lighting came on as karaoke was to be heard from premises about.

Heading out of town this morning (after breakfast at 6am) again the colour of the town was evident right to the edge at 3 km.

Right from then the vast prairie-like grasslands accompanied us for the day on both sides. No tillage visible today till near the end. It was all sheep, goats and cattle with a few horses thrown in. Some sheep herds were being minded while the larger flocks wandered at will. Frequently goats ran with the sheep but I spotted one all-goat pack on the crest.

We still had a tailwind and cyclists whizzed past as I dealt with the goats. Very very few cars or trucks on today's route (especially when we swung off to the right at 58 km. The majority of saloon cars ere white, I noted.

Passed through a handful of what you could call villages today unlike yesterday. Homesteads stood alone with some shed about, some of them miles off the road

For one stretch of the road during the morning, blue flowers lined the roadside - some type of lily, I think from the shape of the flowers. Please educate me! The grass isn't of the lush Irish nature, it's harsh looking and patchy. But water must be an issue. I did spot a few tankers driving deep into the landscape as if replenishing troughs. At least cattle and sheep were happily grazing on what was available.

At one stage a flock of sheep had the road blocked up ahead. Lucky for me there was a break in the roadside fencing to return to  the wide yonder.

After the 58 km turn it was a much smaller road, no hard shoulder, no line but very infrequent traffic. But the road stretched way ahead ever rising and dipping.

Lunch stop appeared at 69 km at a prominent location. Nothing else about to distract attention. Couldn't miss it even if you tried. A welcome break and chance to replenish energy.

I started back on my tod and regularly checked my mirror for traffic or overtaking cyclists. Cars were in frequent but with a headwind they gave no warning. Generally there was little to be seen in the mirror, just the same as the view out in front.

Just after that I noticed very red soil on both sides. Now yesterday I came across a brick kiln just after Houate and all villages back that way were built in brick. Shortly afterwards today I came on an old village (no shops). An old house there had been constructed with red clay Adobe, some straw and pebbles included. Even the roof was of the same material on a lattice of timber.

All most of the roadside the grassland was fenced off using timber posts; they hadn’t come from these parts definitely.

Near the end of the ride I arrived back into windmill country, stretching off on both sides. Whereas I could enjoy the ride in complete silence, a distinctive whir was audible along this stretch. They are so tremendously large close up. I did contemplate going in right to the base of one till I spotted a rather small ’No Entry’ symbol beside an open gate.

For the last 20 km into Sonid Youqi the wind switched about, but with no benefit or otherwise to me. Now it came from the north-east, right across me as I proceeded along a north-west line.

Just before Sonid Youqi some tillage appeared again in one field. Some crop or other had been sown under plastic in rather poor looking soil. Across the road I had earlier noticed lots and lots of white plastic protruding from the ground. Apparently when the last crop had been harvested there, no attempt made to gather the plastic.

Sonid Youqi is a small place, smaller than any of the previous stops, but the approach to the centre is impressive once over the flyover.

The hotel is adequate for our purpose and the hot showers were welcome.

Another satisfying day with a taste of adversity.

At dinner tonight at a nearby restaurant, we shared the premises with what seemed like an office Friday night outing. Again they wanted to take photos of us. After the meal, and just as we were about to leave they started their karaoke. I'm sure they'll be there till a late hour.

On the way back to the hotel, a sand storm was brewing and needed. Eyes to be shielded.

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Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.