Day 15. Wednesday. June 1.

Day 15.     Bulgan to River Camp (6)

Distance:  129 km

Cumulative Distance:  1717 km.

Time: 5 hrs  45 min

Speed: 22 km/ hr

Feet climbed today: 2420

Cumulative climb so far: 37,076 ft.

AHR:  94 bpm.

Punctures so far: 2 

Altitude tonight: 2983 ft ASL

Back on the paved road today and it felt just great. So easy to make progress and see the kms clock up rapidly in front of you.

Nice mild morning as we gathered for a breakfast of porridge, honey, muesli and coffee. Couldn’t ask for better. Bulgan was quiet as we passed through, not much stirring at 6.30.

Within a few kilometres we left town behind on the A0902 and immediately hills covered with trees were with us. The road was quiet as it began to rise and kept rising gently to the 20 km mark. Scenery was beautiful with a clear sky and the day warming up all the time.

A small river meandered beside us after the 20 km point as it also flowed northward to join yesterday’s Okron River. A bridge offered a natural break point for a bit of nourishment.

Very little traffic along here. Mongolia drives on the right, but I notice that almost half of the cars (even new ones) are right-hand drive, imports from Japan. The government here made an attempt to stop these imports but apparently without success. The most popular car on the road here is the Toyota Prius (white).

From 30 we had a pull all the way to the 45 km point finishing with a stiff few kilometres. At the crest was what appeared to be a Buddhist shrine decked in blue and gold. 

From this point on plenty of pine and birch covered hills and Swiss-type cottages, very like what one would expect in the Black Forest. We are now in the Khovsgol area, the most tourist conscious part of the country, sometimes described s a mix of Switzerland and Montana. And yaks began to appear with the usual goats, sheep, horses and cattle.

Just before lunch we dropped into a cafe run by a woman (Russian) in the family ger by the side of the road. It was extremely sweet coffee but the ambience made up for it. Entering a ger, don't stand on the threshold and turn to the left. It’s about 20 ft ( 7 m) diameter and just one single room. For the coffee three of the Lads sat on the family bed. Two stoves in the centre, her little shop on a set of shelves, washing facilities by the door, power generated from solar panels outside and a television. All in one room. We were glad to give her the custom. Not all the cyclists dropped in.

Lunch came soon after and again we had 2 horsemen dropping on and partaking of the fare. Last evening by our campsite youngsters as young as 5 were hopping up and down off the family horse.

Just after lunch I viewed the sorry grimy state of the bike after two days off-road. It’ll get a big clean up on next Rest Day (Sat)

After 90 km we approached the village of Unit with its coloured roofs. These coloured roofs are to be seen in all areas, town and country. We dropped into a small shop and outside afterwards met up with a group of local junior cyclists. Some of the bikes were lightened by the absence of brake components!

 On my 2015 Mongolia map the road is tarred as far as Unit only and dirt road after that. But now a new road is in place, in excellent condition and almost traffic free, but not always cow free . It was a pleasure to cycle on; and it was generally downhill also.

Still there were fabulous views on both sides - the left side is part of a Mountain Nature Reserve. 360 degrees all around the beauty of land and cloud astounded.

Our campsite tonight is a fully equipped site with hot showers and hotel or ger accommodation available. And new triangular chalets are in the process of being erected down by the bank of the river. Still very warm and sunny when we arrived (2 pm) and I erected the tent in the shade of a tree -glad of that. Such a pleasure to have a shower and a shave after the last few hectic days. And a chance to wash some cycling gear to last for the next 2 days.

For dinner we have gone totally Mongolian, we had horse. Tasty in the nature of beef. We need all the protein we can get for the task ahead. And tonight, with Ron I was on dish- duty after dinner; just the pots and pans and it was done expertly!

After dinner, thunder rumbled in the distance but the accompanying rain passed by. Definitely cooler than last night and a wind has just begun to blow.

On paved road again tomorrow as we make our way towards Moron and a Rest Day.

A day of pleasure and fast movement without too much effort.

Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.