Day 44. Kapchagay to Almaty.
Distance: 93 km
Cumulative Distance: 4837 km
Time: 4 hrs 09 min
Speed: 22.4 km/hr
Feet Climbed today: 468
Cumulative Climb: 94,647 ft
AHR (Average Heart Rate) 109 bpm
Punctures so far: 2.
Altitude tonight: 2400 ft.
Another short day and the prospect of a double Rest Day in Almaty. No wind to contend with but had light rain towards the end of the ride.
Enjoyed the meals provided in the hotel last night and the comfortable bed. But the alarm sounded at 4am as usual so as to report down to camp for breakfast at 5. Got annoyed with the receptionist when checking out as she insisted she gave me my change yesterday (1000 tenge, less than 3 euro). Her computer said I had received it and the computer is always correct! All others got their change on checking out. I pointed out to her that I would never stay in this hotel again. And I won't backtrack on that!!
Quick breakfast at camp as we looked across Kapchagay Lake to the mountains just south of Almaty, our destination for today.
I set out with Mike (his last day) and Frieder up the 8 km of rough road to join the highway. It was dull and overcast and all the signs that rain might be in store for us at some stage.
On the completed highway we motored along at 27 km/hr with little traffic. After 15 km there was a detour for construction and I think we missed a flagging here that threw my written directions out for the rest of the day. We actually returned onto the highway after this 200 m detour and passed umpteen casinos with appropriate titles - El Dorado, Victoria and my own favourite, the Bellagio.
Again new ramps for oil-change etc are part of new road construction.
At times we had the recently completed, but not opened, side of the road to ourselves. At one point when crossing over the median, Mike picked up a large screw in his tyre giving him his first puncture on his very last day. Cruel. I was unaware of this at the time and when I noticed they weren't behind me I pulled in also. I saw them way back in the distance thinking they were just stopped for nature call. I went on slowly but didn't meet up with them for the rest of the day.
Ahead of me at one point I spotted 6 dogs out on the road following the group of 4 riders up ahead. They went to come down the bank at me also but I adopted my usual verbal tactic and they retreated under the onslaught. No dog has got within 30 m of me yet. Fingers crossed, touch wood.
Rain started at this stage, not heavy, but just sufficient to warrant the rain gear. Along this part apparently I missed flagging for a turn, but 5 other riders also missed it also, and so missed lunch and the meeting point for the convoy into the hotel. We joined up, pulled in and considered our options. We had the hotel’s address and Joan had a Garmin with mapping and so we decided to head straight for the hotel about 30 km ahead. It was a pretty direct route with just 2 turns and we duly arrived at the Almaty Hotel just after 11 o’clock. Word had been sent back to the convoy meeting point but they didn't arrive till well after noon (with our bags).
Steve and I were to share but we pooled to book a second room for that extra space. Took a while to explain what we were doing to the receptionist. “So, you want a single room?” No, no. (Single room at 12 sq m, twin at 40 sq m). Not my day with hotel receptionists! So, I have a twin room with separate sitting room (including a third bed).great to have this for the double Rest Day, virtually 3 days. The rooms facilities is jaded especially the bathroom.
From my balcony, I’m looking out at those mountains that occupy the very south of Kazakhstan. Just across the road is the Abay Theatre, (“Abbey Theatre”) the state operatic and ballet theatre opened in 1934.
After showering and lunch, I walked about 1 km up to Republika Alany (Republic Square) with its tall Independence Monument surmounted by a replica of the Golden Man on a winged snow-leopard. Around the base are 10 bronze low-relief sculptures depicting Kazakh history over the centuries with the final one dominated by Nazarbaev, the current President.
Nazarbaev has been in power since the break-up of the Soviet Union (1991), a break-up that he did not favour. Kazakhstan was the last Soviet Republic to declare independence. At that point he was the First Secretary of the Communist Party. He has been re-elected many times for extended terms with over 90% of the vote after rival politicians are barred from standing, sacked, jailed or worse. Kazakhstan has posted 9 and 10% economic growth for the last decade (thanks to oil and minerals) which keeps him popular but all signs of modernity seems centred on the big cities.
In 1997, he moved the capital from Almaty to Astana citing it as less prone to earthquakes, more central and its proximity to Moscow.
His Presedential Residence is at the top of Republika Alany fronted by colourful flower beds. Didn't check if he was at home or if he wanted to meet the real Golden Man himself!
Figures and pictures of apples abound throughout this very European city. Almaty, formerly Alma Ata means ’father of apples’ so a twinning with Oola might be on the cards!
On the way back to the hotel (still in Republika Alany) I passed the Dawn of Freedom Monument honouring those 250 killed here in 1986 during protests, the first in Central Asia unleashed by the glasnost of Gorbachev. They were protesting over the appointment of a Russian as head of the Kazakhstan Communist Party.
Back in the hotel I sat down and ordered dinner at 6.30, it arrived at 7.20. The T-bone steak looked lovely (“Well done please”). However the centre was rarer than rare. Pity, as the veg, potatoes and French wine were so tasty.
Mike
Rhys's
Paul, and Bernice.
As a result of dinner going on so long I missed out on most of the festivities for the 4 riders finishing here in Almaty. Caught the tail end of it and we resorted to a local Italian restaurant for a light snack.
A full day of cycling and sightseeing. Still resting is top priority but will explore Almaty a bit more tomorrow.
Thank God for the health and thank God for the energy.
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