Rest Day 1. 9/11. Wednesday. July 6.

Rest Day 1.      9 / 11.    Almaty.

Great to have a sleep in till 8 o’clock and then sit down to a breakfast and not have to rush away.

After breakfast, it was back to the washing for me although the laundry in this hotel isn't near as expensive as the one in Semey. And the bathroom has a bathtub to allow for a big wash. And my double balcony eases the erection of a clothes line. All done now and drying.

After lunch (around mid-day as is proper) I walked off in the opposite direction from yesterday. Streets were very quiet as today is a national holiday, Capital City Day commemorating the decision to move the capital to Astana. Originally fixed for June 10 each year, it was switched to July 6 now which happens to be the birthday of President Naserbaev also.It's a national holiday since 2008.

Streets form a rectangular grid and all major onesie are lined with trees, some even have a green linear park running along the centre. Could be anywhere in the western world.

My first visit was to the Green Market, one of the must-visit places in the city. This two-level market grew up around the vegetable trade and that is still there with stalls and shelves of vegetables, fresh and dried fruit and nuts. All very colourful.

The rest of it (inside and outside) gives lie to the European feel of the city and is your standard Asian bazaar with everything from hardware, plumbing, clothes and accessories. In one large tech store, there were as many assistants behind the counter (all active as there were customers. The mobile phone is big here even with stalls on the side of quiet streets selling SIM cards and packages. I spent a couple of hours wandering about this maze of merchandising.

On the way back uphill I passed through Panfilov Park, a popular strolling facility right in the heart of the city. At its centre is Zenkov Cathedral, a candy coloured building from 1904. It's constructed entirely from timber including the nails. During Soviet times it was used as a museum and concert hall but in 1995 it was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church.

When I dropped in the daily 5 pm service was just commencing with the incensing of altar, all the icons and pictures around the church, the people (all standing, no seats). That took a while. Those present covered all age groups, all very devout with much bowing and blessing themselves. I had to be very discreet with the camera.

Just east of the Zenkov Cathedral is the fearsome black War Memorial commemorating some Almaty infantry who died fighting Nazi tanks near Moscow in 1941. It depicts soldiers from all Soviet republics bursting out of a map of the USSR. And an eternal flame burns in honour of these and also of those who died in WW2 (1941-1945) and in their Civil War (1917-1920).

Just a stone’s throw from the hotel is Harat’s Irish Pub and I dropped in for a bit to eat and possibly more. Not crowded and neither owner or staff have any Irish connection. Harat’s is a chain of more than 80 Irish pubs throughout Russia, Eastern Europe and Asia. It is originally a Russian pub group and they sell 20% of all the Guinness in Russia.

Ordered the fish and chips and a pint of Guinness (draught). The whole process didn't take as long as last evening. I arrived in as the Wales and Belgian teams walked out onto the field (replayed on local TV) it arrived just before the Belgian goal and I had just finished when Wales scored the equaliser.

The Guinness was a bit light, not the same body as at home. But I did justice to the meal.

Back at base before 7 and no tent to put up. And yet another down day tomorrow but I’ll spend a while cleaning the bike.

Thank God for a lovely day.